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CHADS QUESTION???

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I'VE GOT A STOCK H FARMALL BLOCK,CRANK AND RODS. CURIOUS WHAT I WOULD RUN INTO WHEN INSTALLING 350 SLEEVES AND PISTONS. ENOUGH CYLINDER WALL THICKNESS FOR BORING OUT THAT FAR, WRIST PINS DIFFERENT SIZE, SHOULD I NOT RUN SLEEVES? NEEDING SOME POINTERS, LOOKING FOR A LITTLE MORE.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!
 
Order a simple sleeve and piston kit for a farmall 350. The H block will handle the 3.75 bore if the block is in good condition. Wrist pin bushings,,, A set from a 300 will work, they used the same basic rod as the H, but changed the ID of the bushing to the small pin. Hope this helps. ChadS
 
Also, the flange on the 350 sleeve is larger, but, the H block will go out to it. As long as you have the sleeve in hand when you drop it off at the shop, they can put it in there. 350 head gasket is needed. Keep in mind that the 350 kit will come with firecrater pistons,,, so watch the head to piston clearence, if it hits, it will be on the manifold side of the compression chamber. You can take a small hand grinder and cut the head out enough to clear the pistons, thats if the older H head (8043) and like cyl heads are used. If a 350 head is used, no problems! Id go with sleeves, it keeps it rebuildable. There are bigger pistons out there, but you will not have sleeves. Chad
 
Send the H cam off and have it reground to a slightly larger profile, dont go crazy with it, but a little more lift and duration wont hurt. I had good luck with firecraters and the 8043dc head. A 300-350 head in stock form is good for air flow, but the 8043 is good for cyl pressure. A light port and polish, and it will be a nice combo. I got a Super H we run in low gear 3 mph classes, up to 4500lb, and run it at 3750 to 4200 and it handles the load well pulling off the stock horseshoe drawbar. 43hp, 160psi of compression. The original 8043DD super H head tested at 38 hp with 140 psi. Chad
 
THE TRACTOR CURRENTLY HAS THE 300 GAS HEAD ON IT. ACTUALLY THIS MOTOR HAS 3 7/16 PISTONS, THE PROBLEM THE FIRE RING AT THE TOP OF THE SLEEVE BROKE UP AND IS CURRENTYLY LAYING IN ABOUT 50 PIECES ON TOP OF THE PISTON, WHILE THE REST OF THE SLEEVE IS LAYING IN THE PAN IN ABOUT 30 MORE PIECES. FAIRLY LOW HOUR ENGINE, BUT I GUESS WERE IT PROBABLY BROKE IS WHERE THE SLEEVE AND THAT FIRE RING MEETS FIRST. EVER SEEN THIS BEFORE. STARTING OVER.
 
Can be anything as to be the reason why. Possibly, if new sleeves were installed before, and had to be driven in a little harder than usual, they crack right up by the flange. Then, they just float down lower and lower in the block the longer it runs, the more its gonna tear it up. Ive never had a sleeve slip, or break off after assembly, but have cracked them before when putting them in. I freeze the sleeves, and lightly use a bottle brush hone and clean up the block before dropping them in. When cold they should go right in, and then once warm they tighten up. If the installation was rough to begin with and had to drive em in, Id say thats where it started by cracking at the flange. Make sure the rod is not bent,, the sleeves are brittle and should have broke right apart upon impact, but you never know, so inspect the parts carefully. ChadS
 
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