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Filling rust pits

F

FarmerHR

Member
Will be painting a Massey Harris 444 hood. The hood is rusty. Sure that when the rust is cleared off there will be pits.
We are just going over the tractor to hopefully extend it useful life. What are my options for dealing with the rust pits ?
The tractor is a every day worker. Would like it to look reasonable but certainly not a show tractor.
Thank You !
 
use an automotive glazing putty, dolphin glaze is one brand, 3m. makes several platinum glaze is one of them. it is a fine flowable body filler.
 


An Auto-body guy painted panels for my 9000 for me. He didn't do anything for the pits, it was not that type of job. After three years the pits became bubbles due to the rust that was down in them working. If you expect more than 2-3 years kill the rust with phosphoric acid before priming or filling.
 
First let me state that I am not an expert, I have painted only one tractor. I could not find anyone to paint my tractor so I did a lot of research and asked a lot of questions both here and on other sites.
I used Pickles 20 to treat the bare metal and pits in sheetmetal. it converts rust to iron phosphate. It will protect the metal for a long time if kept dry.
Then I sealed it with a coat of epoxy primer (I used PPG products) followed by any fillers I needed. Any filler products need to be applied in the epoxy recoat window, mine was 3 days. After all filler work was done I scuffed epoxy as it was outside of the window and applied another coat of epoxy, followed by a high build primer (multiple coats) and final sanding and color coat.
Again not an expert, hopefully this helps
Tom
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:07 10/23/22) First let me state that I am not an expert, I have painted only one tractor. I could not find anyone to paint my tractor so I did a lot of research and asked a lot of questions both here and on other sites.
I used Pickles 20 to treat the bare metal and pits in sheetmetal. it converts rust to iron phosphate. It will protect the metal for a long time if kept dry.
Then I sealed it with a coat of epoxy primer (I used PPG products) followed by any fillers I needed. Any filler products need to be applied in the epoxy recoat window, mine was 3 days. After all filler work was done I scuffed epoxy as it was outside of the window and applied another coat of epoxy, followed by a high build primer (multiple coats) and final sanding and color coat.
Again not an expert, hopefully this helps
Tom
Click to expand...


Tom, I am no expert either, but your procedure is the one that I arrived at from my research and is how I did it.
 
Rust seems to have deep roots. I would sandblast it to remove all the old paint and rust and then treat it with phosphoric acid. Clean that off and let it dry and then coat it with epoxy primer. Then fill the pits with a fiberglass filler. Then when you have it level put another coat of epoxy primer on and either paint it within the recoat window or put a coat of filler primer over the top.

Paint allows a slight amount of water to get through the paint and the rusted metal can continue to rust underneath the new paint. The epoxy primer will stop the rust in it tracks.
 
There are heavy primers for restoration work {used to be called Fill and Sand or Kondar] Then Dolphin is your friend.
 
(quoted from post at 08:19:44 10/31/22) There are heavy primers for restoration work {used to be called Fill and Sand or Kondar] Then Dolphin is your friend.
Click to expand...


Those are generically called "primer-surfacers". SEM makes a popular aerosol that I found works very well.
 
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