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Primer Questions

R

relsem

New User
I'm working on a spring painting plan for a 52 Ferguson.

I have been doing a lot of reading on degreasing, cleaning, prep, prime and paint but still have some questions.

- All sheet metal will be going to a body
shop for some metal work and paint.
- degrease and clean tractor.
- sand and wire wheel rust areas to bare
metal.
- prime ( my questions)
- Paint using an acrylic enamel.

Questions.
After cleaning rust areas to bare clean metal what should I prime thoes spots with to avoid flash rust while working on the rest of the tractor? I will be doing this over several day/weeks. If I use epoxy primer I'll miss the window and have to sand those areas before painting or is there an alternative I'm missing?

I wasn't planning on taking the entire thing to bare metal. What primer should I be considering to use to go over the cleaned and primed areas and the old paint that will work well with the acrylic enamel top coat?

Thanks in advance for your responses
Bob
 
if the body shop is going to do the paintwork, ask them what primer they want on it so it is compatible with the paint they are applying.
 
I'm applying the paint to the tractor. I'm looking at acrylic enamel. They are only doing the sheet metal.
 
I agree with glennster, have the body shop tell you what primer to use. They may even rather have a bit of rust than have you prime it.
 
Go to the hardware store and get some Phos-Pho. Its sold in a gallon or quart. Put it on the bare metal and it will keep it from rust for about 30 days. Its cheap and its clear and you can spray it on with a bottle sprayer. Thats what we use in our shop if we are working on something like that. It keeps from having to sand the primer back off. Remember if you are priming bare metal, you have to put etching primer or epoxy primer on bare metal or it will come off. There may be an industrial Direct to Metal paint option but if you are restoring and using an automotive paint to have good gloss, use etching or epoxy primer. Just my opinion.
 
I used Picklex-20 for my bare metal parts that I stored for several months until I had everything ready to paint. It worked great.
 



I have some Oliver sheet metal that has been sitting for ten years since blasting and it has yet to "flash rust". I didn't run into it with my Ford but there was only a few weeks involved on that one.

mvphoto71066.jpg




.
 
If it's just been sanded and cleaned, is foregoing the primer fine and going direct to paint?

Or should epoxy primer be considered anyway?
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:25 04/10/21) If it's just been sanded and cleaned, is foregoing the primer fine and going direct to paint?

Or should epoxy primer be considered anyway?
Click to expand...


You need to prime it only if you want your paint to stay on.
 
In keeping with this thread, do you then use a primer surfacer and sand? I shutter to think about sanding the engine and transmission.
Then do you seal it also or go direct to paint over the primer? I am talking about the tractor and not the sheet metal.
 
(quoted from post at 02:56:21 04/15/21) In keeping with this thread, do you then use a primer surfacer and sand? I shutter to think about sanding the engine and transmission.
Then do you seal it also or go direct to paint over the primer? I am talking about the tractor and not the sheet metal.
Click to expand...


It is very rare to use a primer surfacer an anything but the outer sheet metal. I can think of two tractors that I have seen done with smooth shiny housings. You can go direct from your epoxy primer to your top coat, but just be mindful to stay in the time window.
 
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