temperature of metal QUESTION

A question to all the painters in the group.
Living in the London Ontario area; Temperatures of 0 deg., C or 32 deg., F or lower in my shop I will be bringing the pieces for my Little Genius Canadian made plow, IHC 8 C, into the house to warm them up so I can paint them with Rust preventative paint.
>>>>>>>> Question??<<<< How many hours will it take to bring the forged steel pieces and other parts up to 72 Deg., F or 32 Deg., C; so the paint will adhere to the metal properly. After this paint, I would like to put a filler base paint on; several coats; so I can, by careful sanding level out the steel taking care of the rust pits >>>HOPEFULY<<< creating a smooth finish coat >>> HOPEFULY restoring the final coat(s) to near factory finish.
This I realize is an ambitious aim but I would like to come as close as possible for am amateur.
Wm.

Your problem with temperature won't be with adhesion but will be with the drying time of the paint. If the weather isn't especially humid it would help to warm the parts and the paint when you apply it but both will quickly cool in your shop so it may take days for the paint to dry where in summer it wouldn't take but a couple hours. It's just when it's humid the paint tends to blush and also water could condense on the parts. Don't attempt to spray the paint in your house. Much of it will carry to the other side of the room and will adhere to anything it touches. Then it's highly flammable so if the fumes are sufficient the least spark can set it off.

Once the paint is dry to touch ventilation will do more for the drying time than trying to warm it. Spray a scrap piece of metal at the same time. When you can press your thumb hard on the paint and not leave a print it should be dry enough for any between the coats sanding you may wish to do.

(quoted from post at 14:13:12 02/09/20) A question to all the painters in the group.
Living in the London Ontario area; Temperatures of 0 deg., C or 32 deg., F or lower in my shop I will be bringing the pieces for my Little Genius Canadian made plow, IHC 8 C, into the house to warm them up so I can paint them with Rust preventative paint.
&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; Question??&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; How many hours will it take to bring the forged steel pieces and other parts up to 72 Deg., F or 32 Deg., C; so the paint will adhere to the metal properly. After this paint, I would like to put a filler base paint on; several coats; so I can, by careful sanding level out the steel taking care of the rust pits &gt;&gt;&gt;HOPEFULY&lt;&lt;&lt; creating a smooth finish coat &gt;&gt;&gt; HOPEFULY restoring the final coat(s) to near factory finish.
This I realize is an ambitious aim but I would like to come as close as possible for am amateur.
Wm.

Click to expand...

Do you need it done/have to paint it right now?
Even though I have a fairly large heated shop I try to wait 'til it's warm outside and I can paint outside or at least have the shop door open.

Or does that not work for your situation, tell us more.

I paint a lot of parts in the house usually bring them in the night before and then spray and let them sit inside at least a day

It sounds to me like drying time problems will be insignificant compared to rust problems. You are planning to sand rust pits off?

The reason for my question >> I would like to start the prep work But my shop is cold >> even if I start the kerosene heater the metal would still be cold; ambient temperature here is 17 Deg F.
I want to warm the I beam frame and other parts of the plow [ all in pieces] then warm the 8 x 12 shop with the heater [ by the way if I leave the heater on high it will cook my out of the shop over a short period of time > but too expensive to leave on for long hours; good for short time and hot.]
Any way I would warm the shop take the warmed metal parts out > one at a time< paint the rattle can red rust paint on; give it 15 minutes to dry hanging there I front of the heater; take the part back into the house to finish the drying process over ""night""; then " next day repeat the whole process with high build gray primer' several times; to where I might be able to fine sand ""and"" hopefully leave a reasonably smooth finish. >>""AT LEAST THAT IS MY INTENT< whether it works ?? I don't know?? wanting to try though.
>> thus my reason for the original question on time.
Thank you for all your assistance and thoughts in this matter.
Wm.

I don't think heating the metal temporally will help that much. The metal will quickly cool and then the drying time will slow down. You might as well paint it at 17 degrees and not try to even touch it for a week or so. Paint can fool you. It can be dry enough to touch or handle but isn't dry enough to put another coat over. If you put a coat of paint over the top of a coat of paint that isn't completely dry it can take months to dry all the way through. It would be soft underneath and the least bump it would go down to the bare metal. Usually what happens is you end up spending weeks fighting the cold and by the time you get somewhere the weather has warmed up and you could have done it all in a couple days. If you are going to do it ventilation works better than heat with solvent coatings. Open the doors and put a fan on it. Just watch the humidity. In humid conditions water in the air will literally get in the paint making it milky or cloudy. Primer doesn't matter that much.

(quoted from post at 14:13:12 02/09/20) A question to all the painters in the group.
Living in the London Ontario area; Temperatures of 0 deg., C or 32 deg., F or lower in my shop I will be bringing the pieces for my Little Genius Canadian made plow, IHC 8 C, into the house to warm them up so I can paint them with Rust preventative paint.
&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; Question??&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; How many hours will it take to bring the forged steel pieces and other parts up to 72 Deg., F or 32 Deg., C; so the paint will adhere to the metal properly. After this paint, I would like to put a filler base paint on; several coats; so I can, by careful sanding level out the steel taking care of the rust pits &gt;&gt;&gt;HOPEFULY&lt;&lt;&lt; creating a smooth finish coat &gt;&gt;&gt; HOPEFULY restoring the final coat(s) to near factory finish.
This I realize is an ambitious aim but I would like to come as close as possible for am amateur.
Wm.

Click to expand...

Trying to spray onto a cold surface is going to give you issues with runs as much as anything else.

Pre-heating the parts isn't going to help if you are going back outside with them to spray...the temperature change will be fairly rapid. Runs runs runs.

Trying to hold them in front of a heater to speed the drying is asking for trouble as well -- blowing dust into them, burning paint, etc.

Wait until warmer weather.

You might consider an electic infrared heater, or maybe two to get both sides at once. These don't heat air, but do heat people and objects that absorb the radiated waves. Commonly sold as patio/workshop heaters. Might be a little expensive for a one time use, but if you expect more of the same, could be worth looking into.

Here's one example.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hanover-1500-Watt-Infrared-Electric-Patio-Heater-for-Hanging-or-Mounting-in-Black-HAN1001HA-BLK/308633695

There are others, those listed as medium wave or long wave would be best for this use.

Cold metal does not do well on refinishing, best to wait.

I think you had a somewhat reasonable plan, with exemption. Bring parts in house overnight to warm, then take out to warmed shed to apply primers. Take back in house to cure between applications, etc. Heat does matter. Mfrs state suggested temps within instructions. Kerosene heater may also cause contaminants in paint. Also, paint and resultant fumes are extremely flammable and with burning kerosene heater you are inviting a spectacular event. Shut the shop heater off while applying paint. I would do what you can to apply a light initial primer then wait for warmer temps to apply your high-build and topcoats. Rabbit vs tortoise scenario. Good luck!

I've always wanted to try and build a temporary room using plastic sheet and a stapler to quarantine off a small section of the shop for just that reason. I would use an electric heater, not the kerosene one.

(quoted from post at 04:22:21 05/03/20) I've always wanted to try and build a temporary room using plastic sheet and a stapler to quarantine off a small section of the shop for just that reason. I would use an electric heater, not the kerosene one.

Click to expand...

Catalina, there have been plenty of posts where guys have done that. I recall one where the plastic sheet and the wood frame were lifted up out of the way between uses. I paint in my shop in the winter. I pull some things out, I cover others. I clean really well, then heat it up to around 75 degrees. Just before starting to paint I put a box fan in an open window and open two doors and two windows small amounts so that the airborne paint is evacuated. fairly quickly.