Painting nuts and bolts???

NYOlivers

Member
I am sure this topic has been cover many
times over. I was wondering if anyone has
any tips for painting hardware that will
have to go back on a tractor when doing a
new paint job?
I am in the process of restoring a tractor, a complete paint job. So alot of the parts were taken off sandblasted then repainted and now have to be reassembled or put back on. As of now any bolts and nuts that were going to be reused, I cleaned them up with a wire wheel on a bench grinder, some got sandblasted, and then wire wheeled. After that I stick them in some cardboard and while painting other parts. Prime and paint the hardware as well. The problem is when reinstalling them the paint chips or comes off on some or off a corner and so on. No matter how carefully I am while installing them. So then I have been going back with a artist brush and a little paint mixed up to touch them up. So my question is does anyone have a better way to do this so as not to have to touch them up with a brush?
Thanks in advance.
 
I don't paint mine. i use stainless steel bolts with a stainless washer behind it so wrench doesn't scratch paint.
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If the bolts are to be painted do them first so they can dry longer. Try not to put a thick coat of paint on as when you put a wrench on them a thick coat will mar a lot easier. Then when you do put the bolts back on it would be better if you used non marring sockets.
 
You are doing about the only way. Powder coating is a little tougher but not the wrench proof surface that one might think.
 
I did the same when I re built our IHC Farmall BN. Having had training in machine tool I took the time, looked up, compaired bolt, cap screw strengths and found out the stainless steel was comparable to grade 5 bolts. I am certain IHC orriginaly onky used grade 2 bolts ( at least my best figuring by what I could asertain from what I removed of the old bolts) so the stainless was definitly an improvment NOT only in looks yet also in strength.》》》》》》Just be cretain to use anti seaze on the bolt thread as you install them, ESPECIALLY if you are using stainless steel nuts. Something else I did was to use nilock nuts where a nut - bolt combonation was called for along with stainless steel flat washers. In some spots I found it adventageous to use a one size down wsher, ream it out, or shave off one side of the washer to fit the spot to was required.
Hope this helps.
Wm
 
Thanks for the advice and ideas. I planned on using stainless bolts and hardware where I can. Some places I cannot such as wheel bolts. I also didn't know how the stainless would hold up in certain applications. I guess I will keep up with how I am doing it now. Thanks again guys
 
(quoted from post at 11:04:26 08/07/18) Thanks for the advice and ideas. I planned on using stainless bolts and hardware where I can. Some places I cannot such as wheel bolts. I also didn't know how the stainless would hold up in certain applications. I guess I will keep up with how I am doing it now. Thanks again guys

Stainless steel resists rust, not breakage. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information
 
You can get Stainless steel bolts that will match a grade 5 steel bolt in strength but no higher than a grade 5.
 
Unless one is concerned about re-using old bolts for their originality, brand imprint, etc. I find it more economical in the long run to use new bolts. The shiny zinc color adds to reducing the monotone color of the paint and, in my mind, adds to the attractiveness of the final result. Touching up bolt heads and nuts is an exercise in boredom and drudgery. Another option is sand blasting them and then having them zinc coated if you have a local business who does that type of work. I have one near by that is reasonable but his turn around time is usually 4 to 5 weeks or longer. In some/many cases that delays project completion. That would be my second choice with cleaning and re-painting old bolts a distant third.
 
If you use regular enamel paint and NO HARDNER it usually will be soft enough it won't chip right away.
 
If you use stainless bolts do not use 400 series stainless. It will rust over time. 400 series is less corrosion resistant. 400 series can be hardened. Do not use a rattle gun to fasten dry 300 series bolts and nuts. The speed and pressure get the threads to gall. Then you will have to break them to get them out.
 
You can also use the Eastwood's black oxide kit to protect the bolts, nut and other small parts from rusting.
 

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