hardener in rustoleum primer?

Hi,

I am going to paint my TO-35 with rustoleum - I liked the results ptfarmer achieved on his 135.

I was going to use rustoleum primer as there will be rust in the castings no matter what. I was going to drench it in Dawn, rinse, dry, scrub wiht naptha, and then apply picklex or phosx or simialr rust converter, then paint with rusty metal primer from rustoleum.

I will add hardener to the finish enamel, but should I ad it to the primer as well?

thanks in advance.

Bill
 
Don't add hardener to the primer unless you don't plan on sanding between coats. Primer is made soft to make it easy to sand and the hardener would counteract that.
 
As the other have said no hardener in the primer. For the color with the hardener you need to thin the paint just a little bit with enamel reducer as the hardener works better with the enamel reducer.
 
With any oil based enamel you thin it as little as you can to make it work and only if it needs it. Try not thinning it at all first. Spraying it the paint should appear like it's going to orange peal while you are applying it. It's slow drying so it will flow together. Try it on something scrap first to see. If you thin oil based enamel too much it will make it take longer to dry and often screws up the sheen. It also makes it more prone to get runs in it. If the paint needs thinner just use a couple of tablespoons per quart first and it takes a lot of stirring to get it to mix.
 
(quoted from post at 12:56:33 07/09/18) ptfarmer,

which reducer did you use with the rustoleum? and can you tell me proportions?

thanks

Bill





They have a slow, medium, and fast enamel reducers which depends on what the temperature is when you are spraying (hotter/slower, colder/faster). I get my enamel reducer from a automotive paint store, and you don't have to use very much reducer. Its usually cheaper to get a gallon of reducer instead of a quart. If its going to get close to 100 degrees even the slow reducer will start to dry too fast, if its over 100 degrees don't paint.
 
Rust-o-leum paint from Home Depot for $9 a quart, and little automotive enamel reducer with the hardener.
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For the MF flint metallic gray I mixed a quart each of rust-o-leum smoke gray, aluminum, and gloss black. For the MF silver a quart of smoke gray, and a quart of aluminum. For the red I used rust-o-leum Sunrise red (even though its not the correct color), the gray, and silver aren't correct, but its close enough for me.
 
Thank you. Theres a lot of enamel reducers out there and I had/have no idea what will work. Ill post some pics when I am (finally) done. Hows the fading on the sunrise red?
 
No fading on the red yet after almost 2 years, whenever its not used its in the barn, or under a good shade tree for a few hours. It's only out in the sun when its working, its a pain to paint a tractor so anything I can do to make the paint last longer the better.
 

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