Lead Filler

Married2Allis

Well-known Member
Never worked with lead before and I want to fill some panels w/o using body filler.

Looks like you build up thin layers, but then when you add the next layer ... it melts the lead that is there ??? How do you work it? Can you fill an 1/8" deep? Or do you combine metal shrinking with the lead filler? - thanks
 
I'm not sure you can even get what you will need using lead now days! I did my first in 1959 and last maybe 2001 or so. 1. metal has to be completely tinned in area for the lead. 2. need the right torch 3. need ruby fluid flux and acid core solder to tin with.4. the metal has to be clean and bright before trying to tin. 5. once tinned you melt the lead bars in the area and apply enough the first time.6 You need maple paddles to spread out the soft lead. 7.the paddles are lubricated with tallow so they won't burn and will slide over and smooth out the hot lead.8. the cooled lead is worked with 7-9" 24 grit disk, body file and ect. 9. the lead will have to be treated with acid base metal conditioner before priming. 10. if trying lead next to something you don't want to damage with all the heat you will need asbestos to protect those areas. Not real EPA friendly, Jim
 
As a hobby worker I have done a lot of lead. You need supplies from Eastwood. Tinning compound must be applied to the area first then the lead is paddled out with a wooden trowel. However as a high voltage splicer I found with a special rag and a tin of tallow you can shape the lead any way you want . The trick is to play the torch lightly on the lead - keep it plastic but not runny. You have to also think about where you file it down to shape [ got kids?] Hard to clean up. Special rasps are used very similar to bondo rasps just more old school looking . File the lead first. I rub the rag on the tallow then push the lead into shape . Most lead jobs on cars do end up with some plastic filler it all depends how patient you are. Go to Eastwood website to see the supplies you can buy.
 
Here is the tip: Blob blob blob playing the heat dropping off pieces from the stick. Get enough little blobs built up not worrying too much about the look . After there is a drop off of blobs start to play a bit more heat onto the surface . Just before the lead blobs start to melt but become workable smooth it down with the tallow rag. If you need more thickness start blobbing more pieces of stick onto what you just built up. Too much heat must be avoided at all times or all the work runs. It cost a little to get all the stuff but it is fun . The rag is like a stiff napkin pressed and folded it is hard to explain . It was given to me by a high voltage contractor I worked for lead wiping.
 
Here is old school, when I learned bodywork plastic fillers was no no. I was taught how to straighten the metal (had metal back then). We used these kind of files to file after using pick hammer, pick tool to work the metal and also to file the lead, the files were regularly sent off to be sharpened. We did a lot of new qtr. panel work and always leaded joints at top, rockers and tail panels. When I restored my old Ferguson in 2006 I used no plastic fillers and no lead, worked metal old school way, with the help of sand blaster ( you can warp the metal to your advantage) Jim
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Jim and Dr., thanks for the tips. Sounds like there is some investment required in files, etc. Certainly have respect for folks who know how to do it and also for those who made a living from it.
 
When Viking air tool came out with the first in line, they went with the same hole spacing as the file and called it air file. I didn't care much for it but wore out several of the Vikings after they added the sanding board feature. Model V100 made in the Unites States of America and I bought new one right before I got out of every day bodywork. The earliest I can remember plastic body filler being around is when I started in 1959.
 
When I quit we were starting to glue panels on, I only done one, the top on a new Chev Suburban was rollover as was pulling trailer on I-74 and lost it. It should have been totaled but it cost to much, new roof, both front fenders,2 doors and one quarter, tail gate glass, windshield, 2 door glass and both bumpers. Wish I had never seen that thing! Also when National Detroit first came out with their DA it was for polishing out fence scratches in glass,not much good for that but turned out to one of the best featheredgers ever made.
 
There is an aluminum type body filler called all metal by USG ? IIRC. I have patched gas tanks with it and rebuilt up some shapes on fenders. Holds up well and works well to shape with sander.
I also used a little lead on a panel. I just used what I do to repair gas tanks. Then just sanded it smooth with a DA.
 
There are 20 ways to do it wrong. Lead done wrong will not adhere and will not be as good as polyester filler. Plastic filler is pretty much foolproof and has come a long way since "Black Majik" days where it got it's bad name. The very top elite auto customizers in the world use plastic fillers...not lead ! I used lead way back when body filler was in it's "developmental" stages but would never go back to it for any reason.
 

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