Painting Ford Logo's

TJ in KY

Member
I have used PPG Omni paints to paint the tractor, with hardener. I was wondering if I should mix the paint the standard 4:1:1 or should I reduce the reducer to ½ or eliminate the reducer altogether. I will be brushing or dabbing it on and I plan to practice on a junk hood and fender that I have laying around.
Also should (when) I get some red where I don't want it what would be safe to use to wipe it off, paint thinner or reducer or ??The paint has been on the tractor since last fall but I have been doing a little buffing and polishing on it lately.
I plan to sand the top of logos lightly with some sandpaper 1000 grit before painting and cleaning the area with wax and grease remover.
Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. If you see a flaw with my plan let me know also.
 
TJ, I don't have any advise to offer but I can share my experience with you. When I stored My 8N I tried a couple of methods. I tried painting the lettering freehand and saw pretty quick that that wasn't going to work for me. I then tried using the stencil/mask that I bought somewhere and I couldn't get it to line up on the lettering correctly. Looked funny. I finally had a friend that is an artist by trade come over and he freehand painted it for me. Turned out pretty good.
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I did the ones on my 960 by hand. It was a long time ago. I had the hood and fenders painted at an auto body shop, but I used rattle cans on the red parts. I sprayed the red into a container that allowed evaporation, so that it thickened up. I used an artist's brush with approx. 1/2 inch of bristles and I did them lying flat to minimize likelihood of runs. I worked parallel to the edges and kept drawing the paint towards the middle. I got a lot of compliments on them.
 
Thanks for the replies, Showcrop, I will try your technique on some scrap fenders I have laying around. If that doesn't work I will have to try and find someone.
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:21 05/02/17) I have used PPG Omni paints to paint the tractor, with hardener. I was wondering if I should mix the paint the standard 4:1:1 or should I reduce the reducer to ½ or eliminate the reducer altogether. I will be brushing or dabbing it on and I plan to practice on a junk hood and fender that I have laying around.
Also should (when) I get some red where I don't want it what would be safe to use to wipe it off, paint thinner or reducer or ??The paint has been on the tractor since last fall but I have been doing a little buffing and polishing on it lately.
I plan to sand the top of logos lightly with some sandpaper 1000 grit before painting and cleaning the area with wax and grease remover.
Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. If you see a flaw with my plan let me know also.



There is paint out there called one shot stripping enamel that's what we use to pinstripe cars and honestly that is what it is made for.The make a bunch of different reds and either you can put hardener in it or do it with out and it will dry like a rock it about a 1.5 days..Much easier to use then automotive paint for sure..http://www.1shot.com/One-Shot/Home.aspx
 
(quoted from post at 09:05:27 05/07/17) DScott, what type of front tires do you have on the tractor?

Those are motorcycle tires. They were the closest thing I could find to 19 inch turf tires. I used to use this tractor for landscape work before I restored it and needed turf tires. They were in great shape so I left them on.
 
Ok, first post so here goes nothing....



First off, using Omni single-stage. Good product for tractors. Reducer will help flow out brush strokes, although with such a small area, it might not matter.

Now it sounds like you haven't repainted the hood or fenders, I think they stamp the logo in both sometimes, not sure. You're really just interested in coloring the logo. An arts and crafts store (Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc) will have fine tip paint pens, use one of those. Just make sure you get a solvent one. They'll be hidden amongst the nontoxic, water based stuff. Just look for the most expensive one they have, that'll probably be the solvent version. 1000 grit is good, anything finer than 600 is what you want.

Ok, now. Ready for this.... This is like a 400 level tractor painting trick.

If you were so inclined to repaint those panels, the way to color those letters so that champagne falls from the heavens is as follows.

1.) Bump, block, prime, reprime, etc. whatever you need to do to get the panel ready for paint, final sand primer in 600. Cool? Panel is "ready for paint". Still cool? Ok, moving on.

2.) Buy the two colors you're going to use. This example we'll use red for the letters, and grey for the panel. Make sure they're from the same paint line, use the same hardener, base stocks, etc.

3.) Mix a small amount of red and coat the letters. Keep the pattern tight, don't get carried away, but give it 3 good coats.

4.) Let it cure. No really, let it cure. At least overnight.

5.) Now, there's a big red blob in the panel coating the area around the letters, everything else is still primed, or has a light red mist overspray on it.

6.) Wet sand the edge of your red blob ONLY. 600 is fine, 800 is better. Then lightly SCUFF the letters with a grey scotchy pad. DO NOT BREAK THROUGH INTO THE PRIMER. PLEASE.

7.) Wet sand, scuff, whatever the red overspray off the rest of the panel. Don't get too carried away, it'll get buried in paint here very shortly. Get it "ready for paint", again.

8.) Speaking of paint.... now paint the panel gray, painting over the red paint.

9.) Let it cure.

10.) Wet sand the raised portion of the letters until the red shows through. Very delicate work. Don't rush. Start with 1000, then 1500, 2000. B

11.) Polish. I could see using an extremely light touch and slow speeds with a dremel if you have the guts.

12.) Drink champagne.
 
(quoted from post at 23:04:08 05/26/17) Ok, first post so here goes nothing....



First off, using Omni single-stage. Good product for tractors. Reducer will help flow out brush strokes, although with such a small area, it might not matter.

Now it sounds like you haven't repainted the hood or fenders, I think they stamp the logo in both sometimes, not sure. You're really just interested in coloring the logo. An arts and crafts store (Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc) will have fine tip paint pens, use one of those. Just make sure you get a solvent one. They'll be hidden amongst the nontoxic, water based stuff. Just look for the most expensive one they have, that'll probably be the solvent version. 1000 grit is good, anything finer than 600 is what you want.

Ok, now. Ready for this.... This is like a 400 level tractor painting trick.

If you were so inclined to repaint those panels, the way to color those letters so that champagne falls from the heavens is as follows.

1.) Bump, block, prime, reprime, etc. whatever you need to do to get the panel ready for paint, final sand primer in 600. Cool? Panel is "ready for paint". Still cool? Ok, moving on.

2.) Buy the two colors you're going to use. This example we'll use red for the letters, and grey for the panel. Make sure they're from the same paint line, use the same hardener, base stocks, etc.

3.) Mix a small amount of red and coat the letters. Keep the pattern tight, don't get carried away, but give it 3 good coats.

4.) Let it cure. No really, let it cure. At least overnight.

5.) Now, there's a big red blob in the panel coating the area around the letters, everything else is still primed, or has a light red mist overspray on it.

6.) Wet sand the edge of your red blob ONLY. 600 is fine, 800 is better. Then lightly SCUFF the letters with a grey scotchy pad. DO NOT BREAK THROUGH INTO THE PRIMER. PLEASE.

7.) Wet sand, scuff, whatever the red overspray off the rest of the panel. Don't get too carried away, it'll get buried in paint here very shortly. Get it "ready for paint", again.

8.) Speaking of paint.... now paint the panel gray, painting over the red paint.

9.) Let it cure.

10.) Wet sand the raised portion of the letters until the red shows through. Very delicate work. Don't rush. Start with 1000, then 1500, 2000. B

11.) Polish. I could see using an extremely light touch and slow speeds with a dremel if you have the guts.

12.) Drink champagne.

You have got to be using a special sanding block, right? Please give some details.
 
Yes and no. Usually the corner of thin hard block is good for the initial cuts through the gray. Go slow. Avoid blocking the whole word at once, it's just asking for trouble. There's always some big high and low points in the stamping, and it's possible to break through the red somewhere before is all done. The bare metal could be blocked down with 80 much earlier in the prep stage before primer, big bonus points there.


Each individual letter would need to be sanded. Go slow. Cut-down paint sticks, trimmed maybe 1" to 1/2" long. Small ones with some 800, 1000,1500. Just keep the sandpaper on top of the letters, when abstractly viewed from the side profile of the word.

Eventually, finger sanding will be required to clean up the perimeter where the two colors meet. Go slow.

Set up is key too. Lay the panel on a towel for stability with a good light source over head. Use a small blow gun to dry the work off every few strokes. Go slow, no really.

Hope this helps be a little more specific.
 

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