Work Tractor Painting

fsts2k · Mar 21, 2017

I have a 2640 that looks.... tired. It is very much a work tractor but I want to do a somewhat fast and dirty paint job on it. To me that means leaving the tractor mostly together while pulling off easy stuff e.g. (hood, fenders, come off). I would powerwash, sand and fix rust in specific areas but not sandblast entire tractor.

I have seen the tractor supply store JD green paint and thinner that I would use... get a spray gun to lay down the paint. My questions are:

- What do I do about engine? Do I simply block intake and exhaust, clean it, and shoot paint?
- Anything else I should be concerned with?

I will probably do a little sanding here and there to fix runs and what not but trying to keep it as a work tractor so if it isn't perfect that is just fine.

Thanks
Kevin

David G · Mar 21, 2017

You are better off leaving it alone versus doing fast and dirty.

New paint does not stick to oxidation, rust or grease.

Patsdeere · Mar 21, 2017

I would agree. Don't waste your time giving it cheap lipstick. If you want a working finish, find a paint seller that sells an industrial line. It will be much tougher and won't fade nearly as soon. Even with better paint, if you don't prep right it is a complete waste of time and money.

FBH44 · Mar 21, 2017

That's exactly what I did, my 1950 tractor sparkles, wins many awards in Christmas parades. What you describe it not cheap/easy/hillbilly, it is a good way to get a pretty darn good job. DARN good.

showcrop · Mar 21, 2017

If you want the paint to stick you need to prime it first. Other than that it sounds like a good plan to me. Quick prep job followed by low cost paint. You will be throwing away neither a lot of time or money.

Stephen Newell · Mar 21, 2017

Regardless of how many shortcuts you take it's a lot of work to paint a tractor. I wouldn't cheap out on the paint or the process. You paint it right and it will last for decades. It's very important to get all the grease and oil off the tractor. The slightest trace of oil and the paint will peal off. Then the tractor supply paint is an alkyd enamel, not much different than house paint. If you use an automotive paint it will last longer as well as staying more colorfast.

fsts2k · Mar 22, 2017

Thanks for the comments, seems like a mixed bag although I can't quite tell what the recommendations are. here is what I am taking away:
- It is a lot of work... even for "quick and dirty"; yes I understand
- The tractor supply store paint is cheap and not worth it... got it.. will look for better
- Paint does not stick to grease; understood. I was planning to powerwash and de-grease before painting
- Paint does not stick to rust; I have experienced the same thing. The tractor has very little but I do plan to flap disk it down to bare metal, use filler where needed, sand, primer, paint.

Regarding primer, is the suggestion that were there is no rust I should rough up existing paint, primer over it, then paint over that?
Also regarding the engine. Still little stuck here... once it is cleaned and de-greased does it need primer as well or and new paint be shot over it?

Thanks

Patsdeere · Mar 22, 2017

I would primer everything. That way you get a good bond with the paint. On the engine you can tape off what you don't want to paint.

Stephen Newell · Mar 22, 2017

Take the tractor down to bare metal as much as you are willing and use an epoxy primer on any bare metal showing. Then use a filler primer over the top of everything within the eight hours or so the epoxy primer is viable. Epoxy primers have a recoat window which you must paint within the window. Once the filler primer is on then you can work the paint at your own pace. The epoxy primer will stop the rust. I would recommend using some type automotive paint to topcoat it but the alkyd enamel will adhere well.

El Toro · Mar 24, 2017

Do what Stephen suggested you will be glad you did. I use Dupont paint since its made near me. Hal

showcrop · Mar 24, 2017

(quoted from post at 06:52:33 03/22/17) Thanks for the comments, seems like a mixed bag although I can't quite tell what the recommendations are. here is what I am taking away:
- It is a lot of work... even for "quick and dirty"; yes I understand
- The tractor supply store paint is cheap and not worth it... got it.. will look for better
- Paint does not stick to grease; understood. I was planning to powerwash and de-grease before painting
- Paint does not stick to rust; I have experienced the same thing. The tractor has very little but I do plan to flap disk it down to bare metal, use filler where needed, sand, primer, paint.

Regarding primer, is the suggestion that were there is no rust I should rough up existing paint, primer over it, then paint over that?
Also regarding the engine. Still little stuck here... once it is cleaned and de-greased does it need primer as well or and new paint be shot over it?

Thanks

My post about primer goes for the engine too.

Adirondack case guy · Mar 24, 2017

I have read all the replies here. Many people more than willing to spend your hard earned money on very expensive primers and paint.
Here is what I would to make your "WORK TRACTOR" look good. Pull the sheet metal and wheels and tires. Pressure wash all the sheet metal real good and then spray it all with Royal Purple degreaser and wash it again. Then sand the scratches out, down to bare metal if necessary and then spot prime the bare metal with a rattle can. Then spray degreaser on the chassis and pressure wash until grease and oil are gone. Scrape any loose paint off and paint chassis. I recommend that you go to mother Deere and buy their paint and arasol primer. I buy a suitable hardener from my auto store, but it is not necessary either, but it makes the paint flow smoother. I do all my painting with CNH paint made by Valspar as is JD paint. then I would lay out the sheet metal and paint the individual pieces inside and out, and then mask off the tires and paint the wheels. After a day or two to dry, reassemble everything and apply decals.
I have done it this way for years. As Case dealers we bought and flipped many Case tractors.
If you want a trailer queen that you are afraid to use follow the other guys directions.
Loren

showcrop · Mar 24, 2017

(quoted from post at 16:25:43 03/24/17) I have read all the replies here. Many people more than willing to spend your hard earned money on very expensive primers and paint.
Here is what I would to make your "WORK TRACTOR" look good. Pull the sheet metal and wheels and tires. Pressure wash all the sheet metal real good and then spray it all with Royal Purple degreaser and wash it again. Then sand the scratches out, down to bare metal if necessary and then spot prime the bare metal with a rattle can. Then spray degreaser on the chassis and pressure wash until grease and oil are gone. Scrape any loose paint off and paint chassis. I recommend that you go to mother Deere and buy their paint and arasol primer. I buy a suitable hardener from my auto store, but it is not necessary either, but it makes the paint flow smoother. I do all my painting with CNH paint made by Valspar as is JD paint. then I would lay out the sheet metal and paint the individual pieces inside and out, and then mask off the tires and paint the wheels. After a day or two to dry, reassemble everything and apply decals.
I have done it this way for years. As Case dealers we bought and flipped many Case tractors.
If you want a trailer queen that you are afraid to use follow the other guys directions.
Loren

Now Loren did you really read all of the replies as you said you did?

Adirondack case guy · Mar 25, 2017

I went by the main concenses. I just don't see why someone would invest $3500 into a paint job on a $2500 tractor.
Loren

D beatty · Mar 27, 2017

I remove sheet metal and clean and repair leaks and then sand bare and rusty spots and primer. I paint every thing and put it back together.The last two tractor I did I used rattle can to paint them. The 450 was done 6 years ago and the WD45 about 3 years ago. I go to a number of pulls and shows and there are guys that go way overboard on paint jobs. The tractors don't look like they did when they came from factory. I painted my Farmall B 45 years ago and all we did was just sanded and cleaned it and painted it. This tractor having a loader on it has seen a lot of use.

showcrop · Mar 27, 2017

(quoted from post at 01:29:14 03/27/17) I remove sheet metal and clean and repair leaks and then sand bare and rusty spots and primer. I paint every thing and put it back together.The last two tractor I did I used rattle can to paint them. The 450 was done 6 years ago and the WD45 about 3 years ago. I go to a number of pulls and shows and there are guys that go way overboard on paint jobs. The tractors don't look like they did when they came from factory. I painted my Farmall B 45 years ago and all we did was just sanded and cleaned it and painted it. This tractor having a loader on it has seen a lot of use.

The first tractor that I did a major job on, I had the sheet metal done by a pro, but I cheaped out on the rest of it. I think I bought three rattle cans, and ended up going back twice. I must have ended up using a dozen on a Ford 960. I couldn't afford to keep doing that, so I bought a spray gun and I use lower end 2K urethane, with hardener. She stays indoors most of the time, but look at how dull most of the red is compared to the air cleaner bowl that I got powdered coated.

fsts2k · Mar 27, 2017

Thanks, this is exactly what I was hoping for. I just need it to look about like those, I am ok with some runs in the paint and it not being perfect since I am going to drive it right through woods to mow with.

The point of a 3500 paint job on a 2500 tractor is about right...

Thanks!

fsts2k · Mar 27, 2017

They look great

El Toro · Apr 10, 2017

My garden tractor painted. Hal

Work Tractor Painting

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