Don't want to sand/scuff just prior to topcoat

bcny

Member
I am looking for a primer or process that allows me to topcoat on fully cured primer, without prior mechanical sanding/scuffing. Thinking tractor/equipment parts, intricate detail or cast. I strip, de-rust or blast, clean, dry. At that point I want to prime and then set it aside for months. When I get ready to top coat, I want to wipe down and top coat, no scuffing. It would be ok to wash down with a de-glosser or something to get tooth. Then I topcoat with 1k or 2k.
And oh, I would prefer a 1k in spray can primer. it would be ok to hit it with two different primers right after blast, such as an etching primer, then followed up with another primer that has the no-sand required characteristics. Thank you.
 
Unless you use lacquer paint needs something to get a bite on and the scratches from sanding provide that. You don't have to work yourself to death sanding but it needs a little. The texture of cast would be a lot more forgiving. Then if you are talking about an epoxy primer you really either have to sand the primer or give it a fresh coat of primer or the topcoat is destine to peal off.
 
If you ,or anyone, can come up with a product with those specs , better patent it and you will never have to work again in your life. Everybody wants this...including paint mfgrs...so far no luck. On sand blasted cast,you can probably use any combination. Don't try it on wire brushed cast.
 
I don't know where you can buy it anymore but automotive lacquer can be used without any sanding at all. The solvents in the finish are hot enough they literally melt into the primer or previous coat. Lacquer has disappeared from the market because today's urethanes are far more durable.
 
Well we used to be able to send men to the moon, but not any longer. And apparently we used to be able to topcoat cured paints, but not any longer. I wouldn't want to go back to lacquer paint. Not chemical resistant.
I didn't realize the whole world was looking for this, and apparently gave up, because I didn't find requests on the net similar to my question. I will keep looking, although with lowered expectations.

Maybe media blast, then store blasted parts in zip locks with desiccant. Is that a way to get about where I want to be?
Then later I can get into priming and painting mode, and keep track of the re-coat time windows.
 
If you have a small room you can pretty well seal off you could sit a dehumidifier in there and you wouldn't have to bag the parts. It would keep the humidity level down enough to prevent the parts from rusting. Even if you could construct in the corner of your shop a room made with polyethylene plastic, that should work.
 
Well, I'll dispute the "lacquer" myth. I was into auto body/paint for a living back then and I'm here to tell you, cured lacquer/acrylic lacquer paints do definately need sanding for adhesion of new paint/primer. The key word here is "cured". Uncured lacquer would,as advertised, eat into itself for a so-so bond but would also form a sandwich of partially cured films that were very fragile and would fracture and craze with extremes in temps. That's why black lacquer/acrylic lacquer jobs (even factory baked ones) would crack and spiderweb in a few years of heat/cold cycles. It was and is junk as coatings go. My suggestion to you would be to use 2 part epoxy (PPG/Omni preferable)and cover everything once blasted. Then when ready to start finish work,scotchbrite it and hit it with another coat and within the re-coat window, apply your surfacers and work up from there. Epoxy is a moisture barrier along with the best adhesion primer. The world hasn't given up...the EPA has handcuffed any and all chemical engineering progress.
 
I don't know where you live, I live in SW Kansas--I have left sandblasted sheet metal inside for several months several times, including now. There may be a few areas needed to sand before painting, but very few. In order to do this I don't place it near doors or windows.The building is sheet metal but insulated with insulations between 2x6's covered with OSB. Maybe 100 miles east I could not do that. It is dry here. The humidity early morning can be 100%, but it does not stay. Maybe 100 miles east I couldn't do that.
 
about the only way i see to do this, blast and then prime with semm 39673 self etch rattle can primer, then store the parts. when you are ready to paint, scotch brite the parts, and use your 2k powerfill primer and or sealer, then shoot color and be done with it. it would be far better to blast, prime and paint all at once instead of a long term storage, unless you are doing a restoration. at my shop, for a restoration we prep and 2k power fill prime body panels, then let them sit a month, come back, block sand and re-prime, then let it sit again. one last block and prime and then it goes in the booth for color. doing it this way will eliminate any shrinkage and have sanding scratches come back. you then get a mirror smooth finish. heres a couple pics of a camaro we did. paint work alone took close to 6 months. shot in house of colors candy, base clear.
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
IMG_19391_zpswsw2ft0v.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_19391_zpswsw2ft0v.jpg
</a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
IMG_19381_zps93y55x0t.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_19381_zps93y55x0t.jpg
</a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
IMG_19371_zps4m2ztled.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_19371_zps4m2ztled.jpg
</a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
IMG_19351_zpsex81jlw8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_19351_zpsex81jlw8.jpg
</a>
 
Rather than primer, consider coating with Picklex20. I've had good luck with it. As long as the parts are kept dry, rust will not form. Then you can prime and paint when needed.

One caution, I don't think self etching primers are recommended over picklex20 as it is an acid based product. I use epoxy.
 
I have used JD buff primer /sealer on sandblasted parts and then let them set along time and then sprayed JD green right on them without issue.
 

IF I have my surfaces nice and READY for Clear Coat, I would just make SURE the surfaces are CLEAN...

Tack it of with a lintless pad with Enamel Reducer, followed with a Tack Cloth..the Bees Wax in it will catch any Lint left behind..

I usually end up with at least one Color Coat wet-sanded onto the ground, before I get the surface I want...small price to see where the imperfections are..
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top