Total Restoration

Jim in New Mexico · Feb 22, 2016

Hello, I've been on this YT site for several years! I'm doing a total rest. on a Ford 2000 Industrial with a loader. My question is: after removing almost "every" part that I can and remove all of the paint and "Goop", I now have the front axle,and motor/trans/ and rear axle left. How do you guys remove the rest of the "Three" coats of paint?? I can see,using paint stripper and Oven cleaner and about three weeks of hard work to get it ready for paint! I've also thought about looking into something called water blasting mixed with either sand or ground up glass! I've seen a whole car done in an hour!! right down to bear metal!! What do all of you guys do?? any help will be appreciated.....Jim in N.M. My email is open! or 505-620-3040, or send me your # and I'll call you . Jim

glennster · Feb 23, 2016

unless the tractor is completely apart and no mechanical assemblies, i would avoid any type of media blasting. it will get inside the motor and trans and all kinds of places abrasives should not be. lay in a supply of wire wheels, stripper, and a good high pressure washer. prep work is a long and tedious process if you want the job right. 3m makes a nice paint stripper wheel, its kind of a waffle looking thing that works well, but they are a consumable and dont last a long time. i like the wire wheels for high speed air grinders from snap on. they have an epoxy impregnated wire wheel that does not bend over like a conventional wheel, they do a nice job and will not toss wire at you.

showcrop · Feb 23, 2016

Since you are doing a total restoration you will be getting the engine block "hot tanked" which will remove all of the paint. You will be stripping all parts out of the transmission, and rear end assembly, in order to replace all of the seals and bearings and rebuild the hydraulics and inspect gears, so while you have them emptied out, take them to an industrial sandblaster. That will leave you with the hydraulic cover and other removed parts to strip.

Anonymous-0 · Feb 23, 2016

I use aircraft paint remover, and a hot water power washer. Use a respirator, and good gloves when applying the paint remover. I use a paintbrush and paint it on. Rent a hot water power washer that is over 2500 psi. The first tractor I did this way the pressure washer was electric and did ok, but on the second one I rented a gas washer that did much better. Between the higher pressure and hotter water it was taking paint off by itself. Just watch around the engine gaskets and anything open (oil breathers, etc). It's relatively fast, and leaves a good finished surface.

DScott · Feb 24, 2016

I have always done them the way Scout2008 describes. After renting a hot water pressure washer several times I found a good used one for sale locally and bought it. Cleans all the old grease, oily film and funk off really good down to the bare metal. A lot of times it's hard to get down in a lot of the nooks and crannies with a brush or wire wheel. The hot water along with some paint remover will get it out in a second.

gab · Feb 24, 2016

Three weeks of hard work don't sound too bad, I got 6 or 7 years in the last one I did and I wouldn't call that a total resto either.

oleclint · Feb 28, 2016

You mentioned water blasting, that is a big No-No. Blasting with water and sand will get parts started rusting instantly.I have seen this done and the results were not good. Parts blasted with plain sand will rust fast enuff in the right conditions, Adding water just defeats the whole idea. clint

Alan K · Feb 29, 2016

Ive done as Scout had suggested. I used paint stripper / remover on the cast iron parts, let it sit and then peel it off with a pressure washer. I primed the metal right after that when it was dry.

Total Restoration

Jim in New Mexico

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glennster

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showcrop

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Anonymous-0

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DScott

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gab

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oleclint

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Alan K

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