Tractor hood very rusty

Hi everyone, pretty new to the whole tractor scene. I just recently bought a 1970 ford 5000. According to people on this forum, made off with it on a great deal. However, the hood is very rusty along with the tops of the fenders and ontop of the steering/instrument cluster. This 5000 doesn't have a cab like others I've seen. But enough rambling, sorry...I don't have a sandblaster or the money for one. So I planned on using my angle grinder with a wire brush attachment and sand paper for the parts I couldn't reach easily. I also do not have a compressor big enough to handle a spray paint system. So, unless I hand paint, and from other threads I've read on here it would take more paint, how is the spray paint cans that are sold on this page? The six pack of cans. I saw them listed on the parts page. Right now I would be happy just sanding it and painting it with primer. My main worry is the damage the rust is doing. The sheet metal is pretty solid. It's not deeply rusted or pitted right now but I want to get it before it does. Spray paint I can buy, new sheet metal is a little more expensive lol
 

I used to use a twisted wire wheel, now I use an aggressive flap wheel. They come in an assortment of grit grades. Wear a respirator mask. The dust will fly. Get some rust converter to "kill" the rust that is left. I am working on an old car right now, and have been cleaning the paint off with a flap wheel.
After I get all the paint off a panel I give it a light coat of the rust converter, and the little rust spots that you can't even see turn black. If you plan to "flip" the tractor, you don't need to worry about those spots because it will take 2-3 years for the rust to bubble up through your new paint.
 
My $.02 would be to wire wheel it well. I have tried the flap discs and after painting I could see the sand disc marks, won't ever do that again. After you get it basically clean, then hit it with some phosphoric acid. It will turn blackish where ever it reacts with rust. Read the instructions on the bottle. Some say to wash others you don't have to. After that go with primer and top coat. Since you don't have a sprayer, I would go with brush since I believe you are only trying to preserve the metal. Depending on the paint, if you add a roller additive or thin it a little it will lay out fine for a working tractor. Depending on what you want in terms of longevity (and $$) will help you decide on a paint quality. The more it costs the better it will last and the better it will lay down. Good luck. Remember, if you ever goof up, you can always undo and redo. It is a learning experience. The first hood I did ended up with 8 coats of paint. However, I probably sanded 5 off in between.
 
Pat I always wind up with 6 or 8 coats before I'm done,,,2 on the tractor,2 on me and 2 or 3 on floor.
 

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