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Sandblasting not an option - What to do?

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Greetings and thank you - this is my first post here but looking through past topics I can see there is tons of great information and knowledge.

I want to repaint an old (well I guess there are no new) MM G4 combine. I am not looking for a perfect show quality but some thing that will look good from 20'. I am going to paint it MM Prairie Gold 2.

The paint on the body (galvanized steel) is good except for being faded.

The MM G4 has a lot of 2" X 2" angle iron on it which was used for bracing/framing. Much of this is rusted although still structurally sound. I plan on wire brushing it with an angle grinder but I know I will not get it down to shiny metal so it will still have some rust on it.

My question(s) are:

1) How should I treat the remaining rust - e.g. rust remover or neutralizer? Preferred products?

2) What type of primer or primers should I use before the final paint?

I will use a single stage Paint (probably not urethane though) with a hardener - with proper respiratory protection!!!!

Thank you for your help,
Brad
 
On places where the paint is intact it isn't crucial to take it down to bare metal. On those places you might just sand it with an orbital sander so the new paint has something to grip on. On places there are rust you might strip it to bare metal with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. http://www.harborfreight.com/grinder-brush-kit-7-pc-60486.html Once down to bare metal I would use an epoxy primer to seal it. Be sure to do the homework on the primer. There is a window between the time you prime it and put the topcoat on and also make sure everything you use is compatible. Epoxy primer doesn't sand well though so you might want to use a filler primer over the top in order to sand and level the finish.

Using a hardener even if you are using the Tractor Supply hardener in their alkyd enamel means an air supplied respirator is needed. It also has the isocyanate hardener which will go through a respirator. It's just more mild than the urethane hardener.
 
I would send the sheet metal out to get acid dipped, they do it on restoration cars, why not farm equipment.
 
Thanks for the help!

I am still wondering about rust on the angle iron - I know I will not get it all by wire wheeling it, so is there a rust remover/converter/neutralizer I should use before priming?

Thanks again
 
Yes there are chemical rust removers. One is Cortec's VpCI-423. Another one is Rust Eze. These products are an acid so I would neutralize it with baking soda during the rinse process. I don't really use these products. For places I can't get to with a wire wheel I use a small home model sandblaster. If you make a frame and cover the bottom with window screen wire to sift it you can use common sand that you get at your local lumber company. However you remove the rust it would be a good idea to prime the metal before it rusts again. Even a humid day can start it rusting again. If you use an epoxy primer, generally you have to topcoat within a day or so after applying. This could be the finish coat or which ever sandable primer you choose to put over it. Otherwise when you get ready to paint you will need to sand the primer and apply a second coat of epoxy primer. Each different brand has a different recoat widow so you should get a specification sheet when you buy the primer. They just don't put instructions on paint cans anymore so they can put warning labels in three languages.
 

I use various mechanical means to remove rust, then I always use a phosphoric acid rust converter to kill what is left. If you plan to keep it for only 3-4 years you don't need to worry about residual rust, because it takes a few years for it to come through the paint. My favorite tool for rust removal is a flap wheel in my grinder. Get a respirator mask because the rust will really fly.
 

I use various mechanical means to remove rust, then I always use a phosphoric acid rust converter to kill what is left. If you plan to keep it for only 3-4 years you don't need to worry about residual rust, because it takes a few years for it to come through the paint. My favorite tool for rust removal is a flap wheel in my grinder. Get a respirator mask because the rust will really fly.
 
I've used my cutting torch before. One time by accident I found out that the torch pops off rust. Then just take a hand wire
brush to brush it off or an air compressor and blow it off. I've repainted quite a few things after doing that and the paint
has last over 25 years. All I do is move the torch slowly over the area, not to get the metal hot but enough to heat up the rust until it pops off. I sometimes go over it twice.
 
Several have commented on using an acid of some type to remove the rust residue if it can not be removed other ways. How is this acid cleaning done? Is it sprayed on, poured on, etc? How then is it neutralized?
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:02 02/07/16) Several have commented on using an acid of some type to remove the rust residue if it can not be removed other ways. How is this acid cleaning done? Is it sprayed on, poured on, etc? How then is it neutralized?
Click to expand...

You generally brush it on. The beauty of it is you don't need to neutralize it because it is neutralizing itself as it converts rust to iron phosphate, which becomes a protective coating itself. What you do need to do is remove excess acid. I do this with small parts by tossing them into a bucket of clear water. I clean the larger pieces with my pressure washer.
 
(quoted from post at 21:33:56 02/07/16) what acid do you use and in what concentration
Click to expand...

There are many products for this, but they are all based on phosphoric acid. They are generally called rust converters or acid wash. I use Rust Mort from SEM myself, but be sure that it is watery thin for best effectiveness
 
Torch on rust? Going to try that.
I've learned 2 things today!!

I use Ospho, full strength, gloves, eye protection, applied with a scotch brite pad.
You can rinse but I never do
 
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