What to paint in between parts with?

I am working on an Oliver super 88 right now. I'd like to put some parts back on it, but don't want rust coming out from between them later. I am also afraid if I use a can of spray paint, epoxy primer will cause it to lift when I spray the rest of the tractor. What can I use that will stop rust, but won't be affected by good quality paint/primer later on? I work on it a little at a time, so is like something in a spray can if available.
Josh
 
Really to stop the rust the epoxy primer needs to be on clean bare metal and then painted over. If you are concerned about the quality of the paint you are doing then you shouldn't be using spray can paint anyway. It doesn't take that long to clean a paint sprayer working a little at a time. There may be some lifting problems if you put epoxy primer over fresh paint. Any I've used is thinned with acetone. That is a pretty hot solvent to go over another finish.
 
My opinion, the formation of rust cannot be stopped once it starts, unless you remove the stuff. Iron oxides grow, swell up, attract moisture, grow some more, rust more, attract more moisture. a bad sequence that is not going to stop. My opinion, you have to separate the parts, remove all the rust, prime and paint them, paint the mating surfaces. then reassemble. Best way is to remove all the parts, do every surface. I know, it is the hard way to do it. I know.
 
Can't agree more with fbh44. Every piece needs to come off, sand blasted or whatever means to get rust off, acid wash, epoxy prime and use a topcoat that is compatible with your primer. I've found that a touch up hvlp gun is handy for parts off tractor. easy clean up. Pieces need to be assembled in a order where that piece is always put on in an order that it is installed on an already painted piece. I prime whole piece, paint the area of part that will contact other part you are attaching it to, install, prep that area, scuff primer on original piece, pieces, prime area and paint. Basically you need to work from the inside of your tractor out, and hopefully put pieces back on in the proper order. only over already painted area.
It is a very long process, a lot of mixing, priming, painting, touchup etc. That's why a good restore takes time, not months.
I'm sure others have better or different ways of doing it, but that's the way I do it.
 
A few pics of my on going project, piece by piece. Been in the shop since 9/13. takes time, when I get time, and funds. LOL
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a49deere
Very nice restoration! I am interested in pics of the wheels on your tractor. They look to be the HC476 wheel meant for the AR and AO. Casting number should be on the back side along with F&H.
 
I can not stress strongly enough how BAD an idea it is to paint precision machined flat mating surfaces to prevent a little rust. Surfaces of mating parts are machined to 100% positively make sure parts line up properly. So you think it's a good idea to spray a coating of paint on those surfaces that can vary by several thousandths of an inch in thickness over only a couple inches? Just to prevent rust?

I've been around farm equipment, trucks, cars, tractors, and all types of machine tools, mills, grinders, drills, boring mills, and food/chemical processing equipment that gets washed down daily with the most caustic cleaners, sometimes straight 100% acids and the most we would do to prevent rust/corrosion on mating machined surfaces was to wipe a VERY thin coat of RTV over the cleaned surfaces and immediately bolt them together before the RTV starts to cure. It needs to flow and fill the very very small low spots that exists between the two surfaces. Grease or a heavy oil may actually be a better product to use. Paint? NEVER!
 
(quoted from post at 05:56:06 01/14/16) I can not stress strongly enough how BAD an idea it is to paint precision machined flat mating surfaces to prevent a little rust. Surfaces of mating parts are machined to 100% positively make sure parts line up properly. So you think it's a good idea to spray a coating of paint on those surfaces that can vary by several thousandths of an inch in thickness over only a couple inches? Just to prevent rust?

I've been around farm equipment, trucks, cars, tractors, and all types of machine tools, mills, grinders, drills, boring mills, and food/chemical processing equipment that gets washed down daily with the most caustic cleaners, sometimes straight 100% acids and the most we would do to prevent rust/corrosion on mating machined surfaces was to wipe a VERY thin coat of RTV over the cleaned surfaces and immediately bolt them together before the RTV starts to cure. It needs to flow and fill the very very small low spots that exists between the two surfaces. Grease or a heavy oil may actually be a better product to use. Paint? NEVER!

When I used RTV silicone for that sort of application I found a few months later that it had provided an excellent environment for rust to grow.
 
I thought we were talking about an oliver 88 here, not the space shuttle!! I'm thinking the op would know enough not to paint precision surfaces that require a good mating surface!
 
Actually, I have bought parts for the rocket fuel mixer that eliminated the o-rings that failed on the solid rocket boosters that launched the space shuttle.

Read the original post again. He wants to make sure no rust bleeds out from the exterior edge of mating part surfaces. Subsequent posts talk about epoxy primer. Where the heck do you suppose they intend to spray that?!?!?!

When we built dairy processing equipment we put clear silicon RTV sealant between precision machined surfaces so bacteria didn't grow between the two parts and contaminate everything the machine processed.
 

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