beginner reference

Im wanting to repaint my wd allis. I dont know the
first thing about doing it. Could anyone recommend
a book or somthing to educate me on the subject?

Browse thru this forum, there is tons of info here. Figure what your paint budget is, then ask quesrions.

Look at the post directly below this one. I posted a link to my experience with my first attempt. I knew nothing about painting a tractor either but I gathered a lot of information from the guys on this site. They are always willing to help out with any questions you may have. I researched and researched not thinking I would ever be able to do it, finally I just had to pick up the spray gun and get started.
I guess you will have to decide if it will be a "show tractor" or a "daily worker" and then decide how much you are willing to spend on paint and how much time you are willing to do on the preparation for paint. Prep is key to a good paint job, and it takes a while to do it right. I still have the sheetmetal to do on mine and I know that will take patience.Best of luck with your project.

What I've found is that rust is your enemy, and it starts ffom the smallest pin-holes in the metal. Remove as much rust as you can, and there is no easy way. Start with some smaller piece of metal off the tractor, and use everything you can, sandpaper, wire brushes, electric drills, maybe some sand-blasting if you can. Then what I recommend is to prime it with a spray paint can, lightly spray one or two coats of red primer, and let it dry. Get the correct color finish paint, spray a light coat, let it dry, then spray a second light coat. There. You have just accomplished something, and learned something, and it might be inspiration. Keep on keeping on.

Books are just the opinions from someone that paints. There are several here that paint you could get input from. The most important thing you can do painting a tractor is clean it and de-grease it. It takes a lot of time and trouble to paint a tractor and if you don't get it good and clean the paint will peal off. Start with taking the tractor apart as much as you feel comfortable doing. It makes it easier to clean and paint the individual parts. You might start with a mild de-greaser like purple power or Krud Kutter Gloss Off and a power washer. When you think you have it clean you might use a wax and grease remover such as Dupont prepsol Solvent. Some places grease and dirt will pack on so thick you might need a chisel to break loose. Oven cleaner is also good on these places. When you think you have the tractor and parts free of oils then you can assess what is needed next. If you only have a few places of rust and the existing paint is in good condition you might touch up these places and paint over the old paint. If there is a lot of rust then you would be better off trying to take it down to bare metal. They make paint stripping wheels that will fit on a angle grinder or what would be best if you could have someone sandblast it for you. Do this when the weather is reasonably dry so you can get primer on the freshly blasted metal before it rusts back. The best primer you could use would be an epoxy primer. It usually only has a 8 hour window to topcoat. You could do one of two things, either put a filler primer over the epoxy primer within the 8 hours or just before you put the paint on scuff sand the epoxy primer and put another coat of the epoxy primer on. If the sheetmetal needs any sanding or leveling it would be good to use a filler primer since epoxy primer doesn't sand well. Also if the sheetmetal needs dents filled it works better to put bondo over the epoxy primer.

PPG epoxy is 24 hours, DuPont is likely the same. I either do the topcoat or high build primer the same day or the next day and don't have to rush it.

I have purchased auto refinishing and auto body trade school books online for 1 dollar. The shipping cost more than the book . If the book is from the 1980s or earlier a lot of the paint systems have changed .

Don't put cheap paint over a 50 hour prep, and don't put expensive paint over a five hour prep, Use an aggressive flap wheel in your hand held grinder for removal of old paint and rust. Use acid wash anyplace where you have rust. There are many brands, what matters is that it is phosphoric acid. Use one manufacturer's primers and top coat paint do not mix brands. Don't brush use a sprayer. they sell good ones cheap at Harbor Freight.

I just wanted to point out the recoat window on epoxy primers so he didn't prime it and apply the topcoat a month later.

Or he could read the application guide that comes with the paint.

Check with your local community college. I just completed a night, continuing education "introductory paint & body work" course. I got the benefit of working with a very knowledgeable instructor that guided me through every step of the process and I learned a lot, not to mention getting my tractor painted. The tuition was very affordable and all I had to do was buy my materials.

Al

unfortunately most hobby painters do not read the manufacturers application guide, or they take the advice of a sidewalk superintendent and have a paint disaster. its way easier to do it right the first time, than to have to strip it and start over. right now i have a chevy puller truck coming in that someone painted, and the clear is peeling off in sheets. also getting tiny rust pops coming thru on new sheet metal. whole truck needs to get soda blasted and re-done. such a waste of time, money and materials.

That is the only way I would know the wait times between coats and everything you need to do as an amateur.{ or advice from a professional like yourself on a website ].

You probably had some fun too.

Are you saying do all the painting from a rattle can? I have some old tractors I wanted to paint so am just trying to learn. some use spray cans and some swear don't use. For a working tractor will a spray can job work reasonably well?