Epoxy as a sealer over PPG Omni MP282 high build primer

TJ in KY

Member
I am going to spray some MP 282 today weather permitting on some small parts, seat dash etc on my Ford 8n.
I have read several post on here about using MP 170 as a sealer after sanding is done. Some say to thin it, some say not to. What are advantages of thinning it with Acetone (up to 10%) I definitely want to use it to get the chemical bond to the top coat.

Also a question on the topcoat of Omni MTK
When spraying the topcoat of Omni MTK the product information sheet says 5 to 10 between coats (which I understand) AND 24 hours to RECOAT and must scuff lightly before recoating.

I take that to mean if under 24 hours go ahead and shoot another coat if needed on missed spots etc.IF OVER 24 HOURS it must be scuffed
 
Probably me that posted about using 170 for sealer to get a chemical bond to paint. I never thin 170 to do this. I'm a firm believer in the less mechanical bond, the better. If you must have a mechanical bond then let it be between the base material and 170 just as you are doing. I had a customer back into something with his Ford pick-up 6 mos after I painted it/restored it and he bent the rear box side right ahead of the tailite and it was at a 90degree bend. Never cracked the paint. My system bent right with the metal. Things like that are what ligitamizes a particular system. What they mean is that if you can't get back on it in 10 minutes , then DON'T add another coat until after 24 hrs cure and sanding/scuff. If you waited 1/2 hr, the existing coat would have skinned over and the successive coat would soften/wrinkle that skin and you would have a mess. Wet on wet is what you want, or should I say "wet on tacky". You don't want it to skin over.
 

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