Rust stopper/Primer

Hello has anyone here ever used any of the products that claim that you can take the product and apply it to rusty metal prior to priming and it will stop any more rust from forming and the rust will not come out after the final painting is done, if so what is the name product. thanks, Kevin
 
I use RustEnder from The Shop. Have used it for years, works well and I have never had an issue with rust coming through the paint. Sorry I don't have the phone # handy but they advertise in Red Power and other magazines.
 

There are lots of them. What you want is one of the phosphoric acid products. The phosphoric acid converts rust to inert iron phosphate. You need to do this prior to primer paint so don't go for any combination rust converter primer products. The rust converters are watery thin and clear.
 
WEllll there's ways to do it, and there's ways to do it. I always thought you were supposed to grind off / brush off / get off all the rust and rust products and iron oxide you could, get all the iron oxide off, and only THEN put on the phosphoric acid. For the best bond.
 
Thanks, Jim, for the information. I'm working on a running gear and have taken your advice and just ordered a quart of Rust Ender. The Shop's data tells me to use it on all rust areas. Can I also apply it to non-rusted areas as areas of rust and non-rust are intermingled on the running gear.
 
(quoted from post at 05:38:28 07/06/15) WEllll there's ways to do it, and there's ways to do it. I always thought you were supposed to grind off / brush off / get off all the rust and rust products and iron oxide you could, get all the iron oxide off, and only THEN put on the phosphoric acid. For the best bond.

Thaaaaaat's how I do it. Except despite all the grinding and blasting I can never be sure that I have really gotten it all, especially down in the pits, so I am assuming that there is still some rust there just waiting to get covered over by one of the paint type rust converters, and then start eating the metal again. it is because of small particles that can hide in places like rust pits that I use only one of the watery thin ones, because you can depend on it to penetrate and surround rust particles. I want it to look good for twenty years not for just two.
 
First time painter so bear with me here if this is redundant...I've got the sheet metal and cast ready for primer. I've applied the phosphoric acid and ready to go. I get my 2x epoxy primer and lo and behold...the directions say...do not apply over acid wash. I called the mfg of the primer and they say to wash the metal with soap and water to get the phosphoric acid off prior to applying the primer. I'm really confused now. :) Advice is appreciated
 
Phosphoric acid is a corrosive substance which cleans and etches the metal to give other types of primer a better bond on the metal. While the acid won't affect the other types of primer it will eat on epoxy primer and eventually cause it to let go from the metal. It's real important to thoroughly wash the acid off.
 

Kind of interesting that The shop recommends to use their Rust Destroyer before their rust stop.
 
As soon as I wash the metal to get the phosphoric acid off, I will have flash rust. Very high humidity here. I guess I will go over the washed metal with some 600 wet or dry and then wipe it down and try to prime as soon as I can after doing that. [i:f0d57b5b1f]It makes me ask the question though as to what good did it do to apply the phosphoric acid? [/i:f0d57b5b1f]This is a 55 model TO35 and I'm fortunate that it's been kept in a shed all those years, but there is still rust in the crevices and pits in the metal just from having been used.
Thanks Stephen and Showcrop! This is a heck of a good resource for us newbees.
 
I work in welding shops, and do most of the painting at work. I have found that welders and painters have very different definitions of "rusty metal." The welders think nothing of surface rust and light pitting, and don't even really care if there is light rusty scale on a piece of mild steel. I demonstrate a painter's "rusty metal" by taking a new piece of steel with light surface rust, and then removing all of the rust with a wire wheel until it is shiny. I then say that the clean looking piece of steel is an example of rusty metal.
I have used rust converting primers in the past, and have found them to work well for cheap paints. I would not attempt (and have never attempted) to use any inexpensive rust converting primer as a substitute for a good blast and etch treatment for any expensive auto-body type paint.
Also, earlier this spring, my boss instructed me to spray a lightly surface-rusted steel sawhorse with a thick coat of black rustoleum, and to do no rust cleanup before painting (He saw no reason to prep the part, since they never did when he was in the Army. I was tempted to ask him if everything the Army did was prudent and intelligent, but I held my tongue.). The rust came through in less than two weeks of time outside.
 
Just posted this same question on the Ford board, I used Ospho (introduced to me by a welder/fabricator) and my paint lifted within 6 months - pressure washing the mud off. That epoxy primer didn't like the posphoric treatment. So now do I just sand/wirebrush the rust, coat with Ospho, Rustoleum rusted metal primer, re-sand, seal and then shoot with my Valspar enamel?
mvphoto24347.jpg
 

Like the instructions say, you need to wash the residual phosphoric off after it has had the prescribed time to work. I keep a rinse bucket handy for the small parts, and larger pieces get pressure washed. I have never worried about flash wash myself. it can get very humid here, but the amount of rust from flash appears inconsequential compared to what I have removed, and I have confidence that the self etching primer is going to handle it easily.
 
So you just spray it off with water or do you use a scrub brush with water or do you use a scotchbrite pad with water?
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:26 07/15/15) So you just spray it off with water or do you use a scrub brush with water or do you use a scotchbrite pad with water?

As I posted earlier, small pieces get tossed in the bucket of water for 10 to 15 minutes. The larger pieces get sprayed with my pressure washer which is my handiest water source. If by chance they dry before I rinse them and there is residual, I use a stiff bristled brush so that I can be sure of getting into pits and depressions.
 

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