Metal putty

chuck machinist

Well-known Member
I am working MP into a pair of Case clamshell fenders [sandblasted] Is there a trick to working the application paddle through the curved fender? Light pressure,slow drag. Help!
 
How big of a hole are you trying to fill. Even with a metal putty if the hole is larger than a pencil you can expect it to all out. What I like to do is float a larger area than the hole with common bondo and press some fiberglass cloth into the bondo covering the hole. By putting the cloth over the hole it gives something to bridge the gap. When in the sun metal expands and then contracts when cool and causes the filler to break around the hole.

If you are going to use metal putty only put a piece of duct tape over the hole on one side and then spread the putty as quick as possible from when they are mixed. Some of them are very thick so you can't really expect them to go on smooth. Once spread you can sometimes work the putty with your fingers mashing out the drag marks from when it was initially spread.
 
First of all Steve thanks for your response. No holes ,just a hard time getting glaze to roll through the curve of the fender with the yellow 4" applicator. I was going to try a narrower aplctr. I take it this is a trial and error thing putting this glaze down. I am working out a 32nd patched gap that was welded in, by my welding buddy, and he did a superb job. Very little warp.
 
I have a Case and am familiar with the fenders. Mine practically didn't need any body work. What you might do is shape the applicator to the contour of the finder and apply the filler horizontally. Make one for the inside radius and one for the outside radius.

Especially since there is no hole it would be a whole lot easier to use bondo. It's made for that function and sands easier. If you are trying to do a first class job you might epoxy prime the fender first and then use the filler. With old metal there is the potential of rusting under the paint and filler. The epoxy primer will end that before it starts. With ordinary primer if you knick the paint through to the metal it will rust and then spread out under the paint to make a larger area that rusts out. With an epoxy primer the rusty knick is kept in that one spot.
 
(quoted from post at 00:35:48 06/15/15) I have a Case and am familiar with the fenders. Mine practically didn't need any body work. What you might do is shape the applicator to the contour of the finder and apply the filler horizontally. Make one for the inside radius and one for the outside radius.

Especially since there is no hole it would be a whole lot easier to use bondo. It's made for that function and sands easier. If you are trying to do a first class job you might epoxy prime the fender first and then use the filler. With old metal there is the potential of rusting under the paint and filler. The epoxy primer will end that before it starts. With ordinary primer if you knick the paint through to the metal it will rust and then spread out under the paint to make a larger area that rusts out. With an epoxy primer the rusty knick is kept in that one spot.
That was the ticket! the glaze flowed much better horizontally . It was much more controllable that way. Thanks for your time.Chuck
 
Stephen,
if I want to seal my sheetmetal with epoxy first, would the steps be:
epoxy primer
body fillers
sandable and or high build primers
all the above within the recoat window.
and then the color coats
 
Yes the best way is epoxy prime first and then the body filler. If you can get the body work done within the recoat window and not sand through the epoxy primer then you could use a filler primer over everything and then not have to contend with the recoat window. Epoxy primers don't sand well anyway. If you did sand through the epoxy primer then it would be a good idea to spot prime with epoxy primer again before using the filler primer. Personally I like Evercoat Feather Fill for the filler primer. It has a lot of solids and sands well.
 

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