Best way to remove paint on sheetmetal like this?

RTR

Well-known Member
Hey guys, I know the best way to remove old flaky paint on
cast peices is by sandblasting or wire wheel. But what about
Sheetmetal? Look at these hood and Grill peices I'm needing
to clean up.......I don't have a way to sandblast and I don't
think it's coming off with sandpaper. What is the best way so I
can get a gooood finish when repainted?
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You really dont want to sandblast sheet metal because it warps and work-hardens the metal. Other medias like plastic and walnut shell do it less. I would use stripper, and if not completely stripped (they took away the good stuff)follow up with 3M "stripping wheels. " messy, but effective, and scours the metal without removing ot so primer can stick better,
 

What kind of stripper? I've only used wore wheels and sand paper before. I don't have means of sandblasting so no worries. Are you talking about Aircraft remover in the spray can, oven cleaner, or what? I've never heard of 3m stripping wheels either. Can you elaborate? Are they better than a palm sander?
 
The picture in the link Obso gave works very well--it will take some time and will leave deep scratches. Apply epoxy primer followed by a surfacer (high build primer) applied and sanded 2 or 3 times to cover the scratches. The paint can also be hand sanded with a lot of time. The aircraft stripper will remove the paint if you want to use it. The good stuff is still available -- get a gallon can and apply with a brush. It may need to be applied more than once. Wear gloves and use a charcoal mask. Wash any off immediately if on your skin. I have used all of the above, depending on what the part is.
 
Since you don't sandblast you might use an orbital sander with 40 grit discs or use a methylene chloride type paint stripper. The Kleen Strip aircraft stripper in the red and blue can would work well on metal. If you choose to sand don't try to sand every bit of red paint off with the 40 grit paper. When it gets thin change to a finer paper.
 
I last used the 3m wheels on a land rover with 3 coats of brushed on paint over the original, and an aluminum body. Like I said, messy but effective.
 

I have sandblasted, no damage to the Oliver 70 sheet metal. I have used 4.5 inch twisted cup type wire wheel very effective, but it can catch on an edge and tear thin metal or bend the cup itself which will put it out of balance. Chemical: too slow. 3M wheels worked well, But recently I started using #40 flap wheels, fastest, minor scratches, now my favorite.
 

Sandpaper WILL take it off. Go out and buy one of those 1/4 sheet, electric palm sanders and an assortment of different grit sandpaper. Start out with course paper, and gradually work your way down to fine.
 
Aircraft paint remover, and a power washer. Brush on the paint remover, let it soak in and power wash it off. Repeat it he process if needed. Use good rubber gloves, and breathing protection! I buy the paint remover at NAPA.
 
(quoted from post at 20:49:33 04/27/15) Aircraft paint remover, and a power washer. Brush on the paint remover, let it soak in and power wash it off. Repeat it he process if needed. Use good rubber gloves, and breathing protection! I buy the paint remover at NAPA.

I just bought a gallon of it!! On my way home now. Bought some plastic scrapers too but since I have a steam power washer I will try that! Bought mine at the local auto body paint store. It was $47 a gallon but it should last a good while.
 
Aircraft paint remover, and a power washer. Brush on the paint remover, let it soak in and power wash it off. Repeat it he process if needed. Use good rubber gloves, and breathing protection! I buy the paint remover at NAPA.
 
How about trying electrolysis? Here is a photo of my set-up treating the cast wheel center of a John Deere 630. This is how it looks after about 48 hours in the bath. Take it out and finish it off with a bit of steel brushing or light scrubbing with a Scotchbrite pad and water from a garden hose. I suppose I could eliminate all hand work with a power washer if I had one!! Once clean and dry, hit it with a spray of phosphoric acid and you are good to go until you are ready to apply primer and paint. Not fast, but very easy.
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see if you have a media blaster in your area. aluminum oxide is a good media, cuts well and doesnt damage the sheet metal. prolly cost around 100 dollars for all your sheet metal, then its good clean and done. cheaper in the long run than stripper or sanding.
 
I don't know why you think sandpaper wouldn't take peeling flaking paint off,flaking paint comes off easier than good well adheared paint that body shops have been sanding off for years. Come to think of it,I've never seen any other method come close to sanding when it comes to preping for best finish possible. All those wire brushes and such only scratches and gouges createing more work.
 
I've been cleaning the sheet metal on my 55 TO35 using electrolysis. I'm amazed at how well it works. I took all the sheet metal apart and used a kiddie swimming pool for the big parts and a plastic barrel for the smaller pieces. I use about a table spoon of Arm and Hammer washing powder to each gallon of water and an old rotor for the diode. The mixture isn't that critical as long as you get enough in there to make a good electrolyte. You will be able to see it working if you have enough of the washing powder. The rust comes off and the old paint lifts off too since there is ofter rust under that. No wire brush marks and not a lot of elbow grease involved on mine. There are many tips on using electrolysis on the net so...hope this helps!
 
I don't know why everyone comes up with all these complicated processes to do the basics. Just strip off the sheet metal, remove all the trim, then degrease it well with a degreaser detergent and then after it's dry go over the piece with a D/A sander or orbital with an 80 grit paper. After you get it gone over well, prime it with a few thick coats of sandable primer. If there's no dents to deal with you can block sand and then you're ready for color assuming it's as smooth as you want.
 

There is no problem with BLASTING sheetmetal! Its the media you use that makes the difference. Do not use sand if you can help it.
I have blasted nine tractor restorations that I have done in the last 8 years both cast and sheet metal.
however, all critical parts are removed and done sepretely.
As for blasting sheet metal I am working with a professional restorer of cars that make it to the semi show in Vagus and everything he does is media blasted.
He is doing a 66 I.H. p.u. for me and I am following him on every inch of mine and of others of interest that he is doing.
It really comes down to good blasting equip. and technech and picking the right media for the job.
Just been my experience!
My first tractor resto. I started with wire brush , that lasted two hrs ,I said hell with this with wires poking through my shirt,Hopeing they would not penetrate side of my goggles and end up in my eye. Then I tried the acids and strippers , Well my health is to valuable to be screwing with that stuff. If it were not for blasting I doubt I would of finished first one.
Most of us guys that our doing this are up in age ,Need to enjoy it and have something to be proud of and not risk our bodies they won't heal as fast as you can run down to salvage yard for another hood because you scewed first one up with over sanding. lol.
Tony
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:26 05/10/15) I don't know why everyone comes up with all these complicated processes to do the basics. Just strip off the sheet metal, remove all the trim, then degrease it well with a degreaser detergent and then after it's dry go over the piece with a D/A sander or orbital with an 80 grit paper. After you get it gone over well, prime it with a few thick coats of sandable primer. If there's no dents to deal with you can block sand and then you're ready for color assuming it's as smooth as you want.

Amen brotha
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:26 05/10/15) I don't know why everyone comes up with all these complicated processes to do the basics. Just strip off the sheet metal, remove all the trim, then degrease it well with a degreaser detergent and then after it's dry go over the piece with a D/A sander or orbital with an 80 grit paper. After you get it gone over well, prime it with a few thick coats of sandable primer. If there's no dents to deal with you can block sand and then you're ready for color assuming it's as smooth as you want.

OH! that sounds so complicated! just kidding. Every body arrives at what works for them, and then probably finds something down the road that they like better. What I have noticed in this thread is that within each method there is a broad range of sub-techniques, and different grades of supplies and tools. So someone who has tried only the wimpy version of a given method can't understand why anyone would like it.
 

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