How much paint to buy?

sieg

New User
I am going to prime and paint an Oliver 1650 next weekend. I plan to use Nason etching epoxy primer and Urethane paint. Anyone have a suggestion on how much primer and paint to have on hand?

I don’t want to much but I don’t want to run out either on a Saturday evening and have to sand down the entire tractor for the next coat of paint.
 
That could vary depending on how much bare metal is showing. Probably a gallon of primer and two gallons of paint would do it.

If you don't have a air supplied respirator please don't spray Nason. I painted a tractor with Nason a few years ago and wore a conventional respirator and tried to stay upwind from the paint and held my breath when down wind. When I got done I coughed for six months.
 
Thank you very much for sharing the respirator information. I was planning to use an organic vapor respirator cartridge with a stacked paint mist filter. This will either change my paint selection or respirator choice.

I am sandblasting the entire tractor. Sounds like I am dreaming to be able to get away with just 2 quarts of primer.

The tractors new home will be outside near the water. I am looking for a paint that will hold up in the elements for many years.

Any suggestion on a very durable primer and paint that does not require supplied air?
 
You might wait for one of these guys that paint cars often. While I've painted a few cars and a couple tractors I'm mainly a furniture refinisher. Personally I wasn't impressed with Nason. The tractor I painted with it now has 70 hours use on it and the foot peg you get up on the tractor the paint has completely rubbed off. Also around the rim of the seat the paint is beginning to come off. Then on the sheetmetal next to the smoke stack the paint is bubbling and flaking off because of the heat. There is only about 1 1/2" between the sheetmetal and the stack.

I painted a Jeep in 1998 with PPG Omni. Except for damage which I've done to the paint it is in great shape except for the floorboard which has rubbed through. With Omni you wouldn't have to have the air supplied respirator. A cartridge type respirator would work. It's mainly paints which contain an isocyanate hardener which are very dangerous to spray. I knew about the hardener when I painted that tractor but foolishly I though if I wore a respirator and held my breath when down wind I wouldn't get enough to hurt me. I was wrong and paid for it. The stuff just goes through the respirator.

Two quarts of primer will not prime that tractor. With the cost of primer in quarts if you had to buy a third quart you could have bought a gallon. Since you are sandblasting I doubt if a gallon will be enough but if it were me I would start with a gallon and see how far you get. If you do go with an epoxy primer it will have a recoat window which means that after you apply the primer you will have to put paint over it within usually 8 hours. There won't be any instructions with the paint on the can. Automotive paint they expect you to know how to use it. Either pump the guy at the sales counter for info or ask for a data sheet on the paint. They have instructions but you have to ask for it. All that is on paint cans anymore is hazard warnings in two or three languages.
 
I don't sand the 2nd coat. Spray your 1st coat. Wait about 15 minutes, do your second coat, wait 15 again for a 3rd coat. Walk away and reasemble the next day.
 
Stephen--PPG Omni also has acrylic urethane, both single stage and the base/clear that I use. Apparently you mean Omni acrylic enamel which doesn't need supplied air. You can use hardener with acrylic enamel if you want to. I prefer urethane. Instructions can be found on the PPG website.
 
Thanks Everyone!

I had been reading the MSDS sheets for the Nason Ful-Thane Topcoat that my local auto store sells. It indicates an organic vapor cartridge can be used. What I missed was the Ful-Thane 483-52 activator. It contains the Isocyanates. That MSDS sheet states “Air-fed protective respiratory equipment must be worn by spray operator even when good ventilation is provided”.

I now have to decide how much better the urethane paint will hold up in the elements than the omni acrylic paint. I need to think about exposure to rain snow and sun for the next 10 years.

The paint I have used before from TSC seem to fade after 4 years so I was looking for something much more durable. If urethane is the way to go for exposure the elements I will bite the bullet and get the supplied air respirator. I have other projects waiting in the wings for paint.
 
There may be another option on paint. Sherwin Williams makes an enamel called Sher-Kem enamel which is used often for farm equipment. It is suppose to be a very tough finish used on implements and even dumpsters. It's also a direct to metal finish which you wouldn't have to use a primer and is a great deal cheaper than Nason

I haven't used it before so I'm not sure if it uses a hardener or not. Really any finish that is two parts you mix prior to using there is more health risks. Some finishes though have the catalyst mixed with the solvent so that get's sneaky. I am in contact with a Sherwin Williams chemist on another forum. If I can find out more about the finish I will post the results here. I'm interested in the finish for my own use.
 
If it were me, I'd want a gallon of primer and then, probably at least three quarts of color as well as 3 quarts of clear if you go with s base clear system. I'd preferably want to have a gallon of clear and a gallon of color as well. I don't like running short on paint.

I've found that base clear I use is more durable than single stage urethane or single stage acrylic enamel. I've sprayed a lot of PPG Omni with good results. The dealer told me the short coming of Omni was matching colors. I never had a problem matching color and if you're doing a complete paint job, you'll be fine anyway. Years ago, I got a line of some Kirker Urethane in fleet colors for $25 a gallon. That paint did well and has held up well too. Unfortunately, that deal has long passed.
 
Ok, I heard from the chemist and the Sher Kem enamel CC-B32 is a urethane similar to Nason. The difference is it will dry and harden without the issocyanate catalyst but they do have a catalyst that would make it a harder and more durable finish. The down side is you would be back to the air supplied respirator to spray it.
 
I never sand, put your coats on about 1/2 hour apart, that will keep it sticky and prevent runs.
 

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