How not to have Orange Peel

farmalllh

Member
How do I put on my IH Red and not have orange peel? The first coat went on great and last night I
did the second coat and I checked it this morning and its rough. Theres no runs to speak of just
the surface is rough. Im just a beginner painter and this is my first paint job. Thanks!
 
Sand it flat and spray more paint . If you still get orange peal cut and buff it flat with compounds designed for that and the proper speed buffing motor.
 
How smooth your paint dries has to do with the speed reducer you use. It sounds like you would have wanted to use a slower reducer so the paint will lay better. Don't use too slow or you'll get runs. I guess if you have plenty of coats of paint on your item, you could do a water sand and buff. You'd need a few coats of build up to make sure you didn't sand through. Do do a sand and buff, you'd water sand with about 2000 grit paper do know down the dust and orange peel. You can wipe it dry with a towel periodically to make sure have it sanded level. Once you get to that point, you will take a machine buffer, and a good compound like, 3M Perfectit and buff it back to a high gloss. It's not that difficult to do. It's mostly labor. I would recommend watching a youtube video of someone doing the process to learn before you jump in. Good Luck
 
Disclaimer " Not A Professional. Butttttttt . 2000 grit has very little cut. In my video [ ha ha evidence I don't really know what Im talking about] One would start 1000 grit then 1500 then 2000. Now speaking from real experience cutting down with 2000 will take 3 hrs to do in 1/2 hour starting with 1000. That I know from wasting time using 2000.
 
Try just thinning the paint a little more. This time of year you shouldn't need a slower solvent, I think you just have your mixture a little thick.
 
Dr, everyone has their own techniques that work well for them. Some will use coarser paper to begin with, (especially if you have excessive orange peel), but I don't find it necessary for finish sanding. I water sand using a wash bucket with soapy water. If you dip your paper often to keep the paper from clogging, It cuts quickly. I even find it cuts so quickly I've cut through the top coats and had to go back and do touchup. So maybe it would take you 3 hours to do 1/2 hour work using 2000 grit paper, but but not me. Perhaps, I've learned some techniques you haven't yet. :D
 
Other than lacquer you have to be careful not to over thin the paint. A lot of paints you can ruin the integrity or sheen of the paint over thinning it. I like to barely thin it enough to flow out.
 
I was not sanding out orange peel I was fixing a keyed car with some deep scratches. Just saying it would have been much faster in steps up to the 2000 than starting with 2000.
 
About all I use is the acrylic enamel farm tractor paints. I was assuming he was using that type of paint. I have been thinking of buying urethane for my horse trailer. If I do I will do a bunch of test shots before painting the trailer. Probly follow the proper instructions to start with. It is hard for me not to try different things anywho. Just is not in me to take the experts advise/instructions until I get my fingers burnt.
 
Like I say, everyone has their own technique. On the keyed car, I'd have filled the scratches with primer or body filler and then blocked them down. It's all in how you use the product. When I apply top coats, they are usually pretty smooth, so using find paper is more than sufficient when water sanding. My technique takes off plenty of material fast, so it's very easy to cut through the way I do it. I have a friend that does muscle car restorations and builds. I've seen him take down thick runs with 2000 grit paper in just a few minutes.
 
What I did was mix some clear and hardener then pinstriped the clear into the scratches with a dagger brush and then cut and buffed it back down to one level.
 

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