fish eyes in paint

oil/water, dirt spots, air pockets. The paint don't stick to it, or trapped air bubbles tries to escape when to dry.

Constantly have that problem with parts that get painted where I work. Oil seeps out of parts, the paint don't stick to the oil, "fish eyes" or peel off appears when out of drying oven. Had to sand thousands of parts because of this.

Only thing I can think of to fix is sand, clean and repaint.
 
This was a nose piece for an older tractor. It was taken to bare metal and primered? I thought it was clean when I painted it? I sanded it today pretty good and put a lite coat of paint on it. We will see what happens. Dick, OR.
 
Oil blow by in a worn out compressor , compressor in same room where WD 40 or power buffing/waxing has taken place. Don't laugh but even under arm deodorant that contains silica will do it because it doesn't wash out of your cloths and when built up enough will flake off when holding your arm up over a piece to paint it.
 
Mentioning blow by from the compressor and fish eyes . My dad worked maintenance, lots of air/compressor work, company had problems with the paint on parts after changing compressor oils. He asked them if it was silicon based, it was. Switched back to other stuff, a little time later (when lines cleaned out) the problem left.
 
Friend was welding up small "frames" out of 1" x 1" x 1/8" square steel tubing for local OEM. OEM had erratic problems with paint adhesion/quality at finishing, despite thorough cleaning. Traced problem to anti-spatter spray that weldor was using intermittently to keep Mig tip clean.
 
It's usually caused by some oil residue, wax or silicone on the work. If the fisheye isn't too bad, put a light coat on, let it tack up and keep adding light coats till you get it covered, then put a heavier coat on. If you think it might be an issue, make sure to clean it well with a degreaser before you begin. A good coat of primer will also help seal that off and prevent fisheye.
 
For the most part silicone causes fisheye. A vehicle should be washed with a wax and grease remover prior to doing any sanding and finishing. If though you are still having fisheye in the finish the solution is adding silicone in the paint. A store that sells automotive paint will have some kind of fisheye control solvent which the main ingredient is silicone. I use one called smoothie. I'm primarily a furniture refinisher and you get more trouble with fisheye in furniture finishes than cars. The aerosol polish like pledge is loaded with silicone and it goes through the finish and into the wood and sometimes you just can't get rid of it, especially some glossy table tops where someone dusts two three times a week.
 
I have one of those round orange air filters, about the size of a tennis ball, screwed onto the air inlet of the paint gun. It stopped fish eyes for me. There was contamination coming through the air line. Using a wax and grease remover beforehand is a must. I haven't added fisheye preventer to the paint for years.
 

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