Paint question - not a tractor

I bought a 1990 Ford Bronco for my oldest son to start driving to highschool. 3/4 of this Bronco was repainted a few years back because it had been keyed leaving the top of the cab, the driver's door and drivers rear quarter not repainted. That part of the vehicle has no clear coat at all - but the paint is still there. Just to see what I had I spot sprayed some high gloss clearcoat (rattle can) on the top of the cab - you could barely tell the new clear coat area from the part that had been repainted.

Am I on to something here? Would a good body shop shoot this with clear coat only or will it look good for a while and wash off with time?
 
Maybe if they shot it with a clear that had hardener and could be buffed out. In general body shops don't like to do things that could make people unhappy and cause any problems with their reputation. They don't like to spray on top of old paint. But if you shot it yourself and buffed it it could look fine. I would say it is not that much work to spray the whole roof ,but it probably is alot of work to do right.
 
I once sprayed Krylon clear on a maroon truck fender while cleaning the rattle can nozzle. It was at least 5 years before the shine started to fade and it never did chip or peel.
Always wanted to do a project with hvlp in hope of only half the results.
 
I bet a body shop would not touch a patch like that, just throw some clear on it. The car is 25 years old, you will spend way more money on it than it is worth.
 
What I am looking for is information on spraying clear coat. Isn't the clear coat normally sprayed while the paint is still wet? How well will clear coat "stick" to dry paint?
 
My grandson bought an 84 300D Mercedes. The clear coat on the deck lid is totally gone, the rest of the car looks like it just rolled off the assembly line. I think I am going to scuff it with a purple pad and shoot some legitimate clear coat on it and see what happens. I don't know why there is so much problem with clear coat bonding properly.
 
(quoted from post at 17:26:54 11/12/14) My grandson bought an 84 300D Mercedes. The clear coat on the deck lid is totally gone, the rest of the car looks like it just rolled off the assembly line. I think I am going to scuff it with a purple pad and shoot some legitimate clear coat on it and see what happens. I don't know why there is so much problem with clear coat bonding properly.
most of the problem is the clear coat is applied after the base is completely dried ( no adhesion ) if the base is new ( within hrs.) there are still chemicals in it to allow a clear coat to adhere. with a cured base lightly scuff ( fine scotch bright) it and wash it let it dry and wipe it down with a adhesive promoter additive ( from a auto paint store its like a thinner ) mix your clear add fish eye and spray. or just wash with a scotch bright wipe with reducer and use rattle cans. It is all a matter of what you want and are willing to spend. You're call
 
Hello Knuckledave. In no way dminishing your good advice but want to comment on fish eye. It works but similar to street drugs it's real difficult to stop useing it once you start. If one plans painting a lot in a booth/building,it's best to never use fish eye in there. Silicone can and will spread from one surface to another,to even another. Sorta like Brylcreem mixed with cat $h!t,a little dab'll do you. Every thing should be washed and dewaxed before entering the booth and no rags or tools should follow job into booth. Using pre-cleaner during sand and prep should prevent silicone problems. Fish eye should be reserved for a suprise showing up after so extensive prep has been done painter use's it as a crutch. Even in that event it may be wise shooting it somwhere other than a clean booth. What I'm leading up to is that fish eye contaminates every thing inside the booth making it near impossible doing jobs without fish eye afterwards. If oil changes are done or chickens roost in the booth during down time,it's not worth worrying about.
 
(quoted from post at 20:30:32 11/13/14) Hello Knuckledave. In no way dminishing your good advice but want to comment on fish eye. It works but similar to street drugs it's real difficult to stop useing it once you start. If one plans painting a lot in a booth/building,it's best to never use fish eye in there. Silicone can and will spread from one surface to another,to even another. Sorta like Brylcreem mixed with cat $h!t,a little dab'll do you. Every thing should be washed and dewaxed before entering the booth and no rags or tools should follow job into booth. Using pre-cleaner during sand and prep should prevent silicone problems. Fish eye should be reserved for a suprise showing up after so extensive prep has been done painter use's it as a crutch. Even in that event it may be wise shooting it somwhere other than a clean booth. What I'm leading up to is that fish eye contaminates every thing inside the booth making it near impossible doing jobs without fish eye afterwards. If oil changes are done or chickens roost in the booth during down time,it's not worth worrying about.
What you are saying is true for a good both and for a person that understands how to do proper prep work for painting, which is rare to find most people put their hands on things before thy paint ( a NO NO) also thy think thy need to wipe things again using a towel or something again NO NO. So in most cases fish eye eliminator works for them to get a descent paint job. I have painted for Boeing Aircraft and have done MANY custom paint jobs and restorations over a 45+yr period in my shops and DONT use it myself BUT I also know how to prep for paint and what NOT to do, so for a novice I do recommend using it.

DavidG-
Have you ever seen little spots in a paint job small round spots that are circular that resemble a fish's eye? Usually caused by something under the paint that paint wont normally stick to, a blemish in the paint some are just poor prep but most are a referred to as fish eye.
 
(quoted from post at 20:30:32 11/13/14) Hello Knuckledave. In no way dminishing your good advice but want to comment on fish eye. It works but similar to street drugs it's real difficult to stop useing it once you start. If one plans painting a lot in a booth/building,it's best to never use fish eye in there. Silicone can and will spread from one surface to another,to even another. Sorta like Brylcreem mixed with cat $h!t,a little dab'll do you. Every thing should be washed and dewaxed before entering the booth and no rags or tools should follow job into booth. Using pre-cleaner during sand and prep should prevent silicone problems. Fish eye should be reserved for a suprise showing up after so extensive prep has been done painter use's it as a crutch. Even in that event it may be wise shooting it somwhere other than a clean booth. What I'm leading up to is that fish eye contaminates every thing inside the booth making it near impossible doing jobs without fish eye afterwards. If oil changes are done or chickens roost in the booth during down time,it's not worth worrying about.
Hi Da.Bees look at the old Smoothie's I don't see Silicone anywhere. Did I miss something there. this is the data sheet
specs. But I am sure there are others.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/industrialfiles/catalog/product/3M/msds/70008004346.pdf

Ingredient Authority Type Limit Additional Information
MEDIUM ALIPHATIC SOLVENT
NAPHTHA
CMRG TWA 100 ppm
 
(quoted from post at 10:37:12 11/14/14) Fish eye eliminator is like trying to fight silicon contamination with more silicon.
OOK at the old Smoothie's I don't see Silicone anywhere. Did I miss something there. this is the data sheet
specs. But I am sure there are others.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/industrialfiles/catalog/product/3M/msds/70008004346.pdf

Ingredient Authority Type Limit Additional Information
MEDIUM ALIPHATIC SOLVENT
NAPHTHA
CMRG TWA 100 ppm
 
(quoted from post at 09:42:31 11/15/14) Here is a video pros and cons of fish eye eliminator.
Untitled URL Link
After painting for MANY years and still painting ONLY for myself and family, I don't care what others use or don't use, take the advice and do with as you wish.
My first paint job was a brothers bike in 1959 it went to shows and he won trophies with it. It was painted with fingernail polish before Murano pearl was readily available and didn't use fish eye eliminator and have never found I needed it, BUT others have used it and found thy needed it.
So with that paint the way YOU see fit.
 
I wasn't arguing with you . Even the guy in the video didn't know if it contained silicon and sorts passed on barstool knowledge. I am a pinstriper and every pinstriping dvd I have tells you to avoid using Smoothie because it will get in your brush and cause fish eyes later. I think if you have a fish eye problem , yes use Smoothie but if not a problem don't add anything to the mix you don't need.
 
I agree but most of the people here are not spaying in a booth MAYBE a garage and don't really know what it takes to paint a car or tractor, and don't understand what paint can do. So trying to make it come out good and also doing it simple. Here is some of my work, oh and my bikes
a174283.jpg

a174284.jpg

a174285.jpg
 
Those were done in the 80's and 90's all free hand as was this black one but have gotten to shaky to do much of that anymore so most is dome with stencils, the blue one is what I ride now
a174364.jpg

a174365.jpg
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top