POR 15

Animal · Apr 30, 2014

Have any of you used this and what did you think of it? Is their chassis black about the same as flat black?

TimV · Apr 30, 2014

Good stuff--not cheap, but if you figure the cost over time it's a bargain. A few hints--stock up on disposable foam brushes--you'll use a lot of them. Read and follow the directions--sounds obvious but they offer many good ideas as they know their product well. Don't cheap out and just put on the paint--use their wash and primer beforehand--again, you can go a different way but why bother--their stuff is intended and tested for use with their product. Wear gloves at all times and arm and face protection while painting from below--if you get any on you, you'll be wearing it until it wears off in a few weeks. Put Saran Wrap or similar over the can mouth before you put the cover back on--if ANY paint touches the can/lid junction, you'll NEVER get the cover back off in one piece--the bond is stronger than the metal--trust me on this one--I'm speaking from experience! While the chassis black will offer full protection regardless of the way it looks, it will lighten over time when exposed to UV. I've done some that looks like new 8 years later, but that's stored indoors--other stuff that's outside has lightened over time, though not a lot, it just doesn't have the sheen of the freshly-applied stuff. This stuff is incredibly tough--I've got a section that hardened at the top of a can I'd stored improperly (let air get in) and when I opened the can, I had to drive a nail down through the skin at the top of the can and had a hard time doing it--I kept the piece to show skeptics. Overall, I've been very impressed with any of the POR products I've tried--if you do your part with prep and application, they'll do just what they say they will.

glennster · Apr 30, 2014

to add to what tim said, get the por 15 thinner, if you do get any on you, it will take it right off. if it dries, its there forever. i used the por 15 conversion primer on the under side of the mower deck on my zero turn, its been several years and it is still holding up well. grass barely sticks to it.

dr sportster · Apr 30, 2014

Good product-- not UV protected and will fade in the sun. Read instructions [ they say things like if a drop of sweat was to fall into the can it must be discarded as it cures on moisture]. They sell small six packs of cans which was a good deal you could mix gray and black or however you want to order it. It dries glossy not flat and I think it is best topcoated with the paint you desire for the look you want.

WayneB · Apr 30, 2014

Each time I take a tractor tire down, whether front or rear, I POR-15 the inside of the rim. Once. Of course I wire brush it, and knock the rust off and repair as necessary. My tubes dont't chafe and my tubeless don't leak.
I keep a stockage of cans on hand.

showcrop · May 1, 2014

It gets into rust pits where not even soda blasting will completely clean.

Super Trucker · May 3, 2014

DON'T LET IT GET ON THE SKIN! You have to have a skin graft to get it off. We have done a bunch of stuff on the farm and have really good luck. We didn't make sure to cover the skin while using it and I wore it off in a week or so before it was gone. My buddy didn't fair so well,he had a wedding that night to attend. Gas,diesel,mineral spirits,thinner,brake clean,carb clean & a bunch of scrubbing COULDN'T get it off. His wife told him he better get clean or there will be HE!! to pay.

newgenjdcollector · May 13, 2014

I have used Por15 a bunch and it's very durable with minimal prep. I especailly like their high temperature exhaust paint that POR calls black velvet. It holds up better than anything I have ever used. Before finding the black velvet, I had considered sending my manifolds off to a ceramic coater, but now I just spray on the black velvet and it holds up incredibly well.

My only peev about the por15 paint is that nothing sticks to it. I would love to use por15 as a one-coat primer coat over a freshly sandblasted chassis, instead of my faithful epoxy. But I have tested a few different things applied over top of por and have not had good results. I know POR has their own etching primers and tye coat or whatever that supposedly will let you apply your own primers and paint over top of POR paint, but I can't seem to get any of it to work at all. Either it doesn't stick and everything you applied just peels right off down to the por, or the surface is rough and makes for a ton more work than just epoxy it and paint it. I have even had clearcoat bubble up on me after tye-coat then epoxy then base. So yeah, for certain things, it is second to none. For other things, I use a different approach

bison · May 15, 2014

(quoted from post at 06:27:47 04/30/14) Good stuff--not cheap, but if you figure the cost over time it's a bargain. A few hints--stock up on disposable foam brushes--you'll use a lot of them. Read and follow the directions--sounds obvious but they offer many good ideas as they know their product well. Don't cheap out and just put on the paint--use their wash and primer beforehand--again, you can go a different way but why bother--their stuff is intended and tested for use with their product. Wear gloves at all times and arm and face protection while painting from below--if you get any on you, you'll be wearing it until it wears off in a few weeks. Put Saran Wrap or similar over the can mouth before you put the cover back on--if ANY paint touches the can/lid junction, you'll NEVER get the cover back off in one piece--the bond is stronger than the metal--trust me on this one--I'm speaking from experience! While the chassis black will offer full protection regardless of the way it looks, it will lighten over time when exposed to UV. I've done some that looks like new 8 years later, but that's stored indoors--other stuff that's outside has lightened over time, though not a lot, it just doesn't have the sheen of the freshly-applied stuff. This stuff is incredibly tough--I've got a section that hardened at the top of a can I'd stored improperly (let air get in) and when I opened the can, I had to drive a nail down through the skin at the top of the can and had a hard time doing it--I kept the piece to show skeptics. Overall, I've been very impressed with any of the POR products I've tried--if you do your part with prep and application, they'll do just what they say they will.

i bought 2 cans of por-15 two years ago , when opening the first can i could not get the lid off no matter how i tried. I ended up poking a hole in the lid, i wasted most of it.
Last week i tried opening the second can,..again,..lid is solid stuck,..had to poke another hole, can't stir it, i needed only a little bit and can't save it as is.

With the first can i pored the leftover in a jar with a screw lid with a rubber gasket,.could not get that lid of either when i needed some,..ended up breaking the jar spilling that stuff all over the work bench and the floor

I ain't impressed. :roll:

Chase_99 · May 21, 2014

For frames, floor boards, and stuff like that I like to use ZERO RUST Its cheaper than por 15 and simple to use. http://zero-rust.com/index.php

It comes a in a few colors, I"ve just used black and its a high solids paint(cans are heavy). A couple coats with a brush lays down a good barrier of paint. Being that it has no hardners (iso's) its easy to go back and touch up. You can also spray it on too, it uses xylene as a thinner. Only thing is if you put it on real thick it does take a while to get real hard.

POR 15

Animal

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TimV

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glennster

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dr sportster

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WayneB

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showcrop

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Super Trucker

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newgenjdcollector

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bison

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Chase_99

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