Paint compatibility

SuperHDan

New User
Ok, first off, I would like to admit that I am an idiot since I am certain that many of you will be thinking so after reading this... Last summer I stripped my Farmall Super H and primed and painted the chassis and most of the cast parts with (get ready for this one) the rattle can "IH red" from tractor supply, which is an alkyd enamel. I am embarrassed to admit that, but it"s the truth. It actually looks very nice, but the more I think about it, the more terrified I become that it will turn pink very quickly. I also had the idea from the very beginning that I would have IH 2150 in acrylic enamel mixed for the tins and apply with a spray gun since the finish on the sheet metal matters much more than it does on cast surfaces. I am also concerned that the 2150 will not match the tractor supply rattle can paint... So my next thought was that maybe I could just shoot the whole tractor with the 2150 right over what I"ve already painted... What can I and can I not spray over the alkyd enamel? I really, really, really do not want to have to strip the paint off the tractor. I worked really hard to get it prepped in the first place and I don"t want it to be for nothing. I"m dreading the idea. Can anyone tell me what I should do here? I want to end up with a nice tractor.... It"s retired and it"s important to me that it"s pretty when it"s done and that it stays that way for a long time. Thanks.
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To answer your question look at the ingredients of any paint you wish to overcoat the enamel with. If there is any strong solvents like acetone, toluene or methyl ethyl keytone you shouldn't apply it over an alkyd enamel. Since we don't know specifically which paint you used the paint may be closer to a quick dry enamel and more tolerent to the solvents after a week dry time. What happens is the solvents will lift the existing paint as though you put paint and varnish remover on it.

It's more than fading. If you really want it done right you need to strip the paint off and prime it with an epoxy primer and use an automotive line of paint. Rust is hard to stop on a old tractor and the epoxy primer will block it better than any primer you can use. The rattle can stuff will allow the metal to rust under the paint and you don't know it until a big patch peals off.
 

I would get good paint for the sheet metal. You can get an accurate match by painting a piece which you can take to an auto parts store that handles automotive paint. They can digitally analyze it and duplicate the shade. Red is expensive and it is also not as stable as you know. I touched up spots on my Ford after painting it with urethane with hardener. I used the same paint without hardener and it darkened considerably in a year and a half.
 
You didn't say whether you used a primer under the spray bombs. I would hope you did. If you didn't then you may as well strip it. Assuming you did, any acrylic enamel or alkyd enamel, which is what you are talking about using over it , will work. Stay away from anything labeled "laquer or acrylic laquer or urethane or acrylic urethane" as they are too "hot" with solvents that will eat the other up. Play it safe and spray some on "wet" on a test spot on the bottom of the tractor and watch it for reaction/crinlking. I think you are ok though. RB
 
Yes, I used a self etching primer on the bare metal and then a coat or two of duplicolor sandable primer. Then three coats of the rattle can Majic alkyd enamel. Thank you very much.
 
I would go over it with scotch brite pads, clean it good and shoot it with acrylic enamel and hardener.
 
I also am an idiot as well . At least according to my wife and I don't really argue with that. That tractor looks great. Alot of the paints I read about on here I am not familiar with. The thing that is going to fade it is the suns UV rays. If it is a show tractor stored indoors and brought out ocasionally it shouldn't fade. I know the auto paint with the most UV protection is House of Kolor but this is an expensive custom paint [ owned by Valspar]. If you top coat with UV clear it could help. Sticking with one paint system is best from the start but .. .
 
That looks good since it's set for a year I bet you could scuff it good with a red scotch brite pad and paint it with enamel or maybe acrylic enamel and hardener. My Super M in dealer 2150 and hardener.
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Thanks that super m looks great. I want one to go with the super h someday. I think I'll try the scotch brite and acrylic enamel.
 

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