Applying Mylar Decals

jfred

Member
I was just curious as to how long is the proper length of time that should be waited before applying mylar decals? This would be after using a urethane bc/cc paint. I'm sure there are varying opinions. I have read that vinyl decals can be applied immediately because the paint can breath through the decal and mylar needs extra time for the paint to dry because it can't breath through it. Is there any truth to that? Obviously if an alkyd enamel was being used or cheap paints I can imagine a much longer time period would be needed compared to automotive paints.

Opinions?

TIA
 
(quoted from post at 08:23:16 02/07/14) I was just curious as to how long is the proper length of time that should be waited before applying mylar decals? This would be after using a urethane bc/cc paint. I'm sure there are varying opinions. I have read that vinyl decals can be applied immediately because the paint can breath through the decal and mylar needs extra time for the paint to dry because it can't breath through it. Is there any truth to that? Obviously if an alkyd enamel was being used or cheap paints I can imagine a much longer time period would be needed compared to automotive paints.

Opinions?

TIA

I would wait atleast until the paint is dry to the touch and no longer tacky. Waiting a few more days after that would be even better. I like to use Windex on the surface the decal is being applied to. This gives you a chance to move the decal around and get it in the correct position. Use a sponge to work the bubbles out.
 
I use warm soapy water with lots of dish soap. This helps clean the surface of any debris. Just apply the decal over the soapy water, slide it around in position then use a small sponge or squeegee to get the bubbles out from under it. I've been using this method for over 30 years, one time we had to remove the decal 30 minutes after putting it on and removing it was easy still.
 
All BC/CC urethane systems are not created equal. There are many cure rate variances to choose from and all are for a certain set of conditions at spray time. They have urethanes that with the correct formulation and catylist, you can handle a heave part within 2 hrs without fingerprints. There are also formulations made for large equipment painting that stay open to overspray for an hour for obvious reasons.Some are just low quality and the catylist is low quality and therefore may stay soft several days. Yours probably falls somewhere in the middle but if you have the time to wait, I would give it three days min. and then give it the "finger print" test which it must pass before applying decals.
 
Vinyl computer cut decals. Seems a waste to spend the extra money on bc/cc then use the cheap looking mylar decals..
 
(quoted from post at 23:54:53 02/08/14) Don't know why you would put cheap mylar decals on after using bc/cc.

Mylar is all that are available for Silver King tractors and they appear to be very nice in detail made by Maple Hunter decal company.
 
I may step on some toes here, but as a graphic designer in the past and computer cut a thousands of decals I can tell you the only real difference between what you are talking here is that some decals are screen or computer printed on to a clear base film where as the computer cut lettering is direct cut out of colored material. The screen or computer cut decals are far more efficient in cases where multiple colors are used. Those Silver king decals are a three color decal. If you really want a surprise look at the decals on a 4430 and see how many colors are there. Would you believe it is 3 on the originals.

As for application in a pro shop we used an alcohol based product with an activator to enhance the glue. I have used window cleaner that had alcohol base. Do not use Windex or soap as those products have an oil base and just won't give the life to the adhesion. If you wonder as to the quality of the computer cut decals always go for the 2 mil. Long story short is they have a longer life and less shrinkage of the cheaper thicker ones
 

The mylar decals are as close to the original decals as possible, so if you are doing a total, correct restoration to return the tractor to the condition it was in when it rolled off the assembly line, then the mylar decals are the only way to go. Using any other type of decal will turn that restoration into a "customization". If a customized tractor is what you want, go for it, but please do not call it a "correct" restoration.
 

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