keeping it shinning

TSC paint valspar i think what it is thin it with naptha which is no more than safety clean i used this paint after i soda blasted my tractor thats what i do mostly is soda/media blasting i don't do the paint and bodywork for people even if its a complete restore but my baby i thought id do it and that paint went on supurb the most beautiful thing i ever saw people at the first few shows came up to admire it so i put it in some shows and won some to always took home some kind of an award then about maybe ayear it looks fifty years old faded and dule and straight up depressing the only time thime this tractor was outside and uncovered was to go pull and people thought id traded tractors im not dissing the paint the way it sprays and lays down at all even got a pretty good drying time but ill never put it on anything of mine again i wanted to keep my stuff original but not the paint im going with a quality auto paint this time im fixing to break it down and do some mods to the engine really if i can find someone that can give me any hintson a C model seems like no one does i know i can go with a super C cylinder kit and go from 117 to 123 c.i. ive never had the head off yet to see anything there or looked into yhe carb situation but back to the paint what is a good paint to keeps its shine or hows the best way cause mine is never out and it gets washed and waxed more than my truck

Good decision to go to quality paint. Here in florida, Valspar doesn't hold up well. I use Rustoleum On most items and Use a Catazlized acryliic enamel on all tractors,trailer fenders and other sheet metal. Good luck!

If that's the original engine in your Farmall C it's 113cid. You can install a new sleeve kit to boost the displacement to 123cid. When ordering a new sleeve kit measure the length of your old sleeves. Should be about 6-7/8" in length. Hal

Bud, there has been lot on this forum on this topic. you can just scroll back and read a lot. What I will offer is that particularly with the brighter colors, especially red, there is no substitute for the use of high quality paint. Also, never put expensive paint over a five hour prep job, and never put cheap paint over a fifty hour prep job.

Bud did you use hardener in your paint? If not that might be why it faded so bad.

Hardener might make it somewhat brighter at the beginning meaning it's shine might last a little longer -- but hardener does not slow or stop fading because it has no UV inhibiters.

Any thing worth spending more than a couple of hours prepping is worth buying quality auto paint for.

thats true but that was my first one i painted and i wanted to go back with original paint you know id spent hours and gas looking and finding everything to go back original only to be let down by this paint they didn't base coat clear coat on them in 1948

yeah we did it was in a small can and seems like i bought a extra one just to make sure we had e nough

yeah they are you can go 123 which is stock super c i don't know what the hp is on that then you can get them 50 or 60 over im guessing on getting them over bore the stock 123 is 31/8 ive been told to go to a 504 or 444 engine

I had a Super C I bought used with the fast hitch
and two bottom plow. When I plowed a little sod ground the tractor had enough power to cause wheel slippage. We ran drawbar on all the military vehicles before being fielded and if the tracks or wheels started to lose traction you had enough power. Here are some pictures of the heavy field dynamometers. Hal

the ultimate answer here is that you used low quality paint and now your paying for it. Solution is to get your paint from an automotive body supply or professional paint store. I have lost track of auto paint but you used to be able to buy good single stage paints to keep your original look.