Winter project

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I am in the process of restoring a 1955 CASE 401while it's in my garage. I live in Michigan and it will be a winter project. I have powerwashed and want to strip old layers of paint to bare metal. There are old rust spots where paint has been missing. I plan on wire wheeling and using "Prep and Etch". Once I do this planned on using etching primer. I then plan painting in the spring. What is the best way to protect what is etch primer? Can I use rattle can primer till I use 2k urethane surfacer primer? I have read earlier post tractor parts need to be at least 60 degrees taking this into consideration. Any help appreciated.
 

I would clean it all up and not worry about it. There can't be much moisture in the air in Michigan in the winter. I have a set of tractor sheet metal here in my shop that I sand blasted about eight years ago that I don't see any rust on.
 
I do not have the answer about how to prevent rust
over the winter, but I have lived in Michigan all of
my life and at times we have very moist/wet air and
if it was my tractor it would be a concern, more
often wet than dry.
 
I know in pennsylvania, which has a winter not too unlike those in michigan, there are times that the air is so moist the inside of a building without heat will actually have water running down any non-porous surfaces.
 
You don't need etch primer as it is made for new metal in place of sanding. Give it a couple of coats of epoxy primer and when you are ready to paint scuff or sand it and give it another coat. True epoxy is water proof. I would wait until 65-70 degrees.
 
I started my MM UB last fall the same way. I steam washed it, the used aircraft paint remover followed by steam wash. Then used wire wheel in grinder to get the rest of the paint off. My mistake was when I sprayed the self etching primer. I heated my barn to over 70 degrees for a few hours, and rattle canned the primer. Looked great when I was done. I then worked on my small parts for the rest of the winter and planned to paint when the temps got warm in the spring. The problem I had was although the air temp was over 70 the metal on the tractor never got that warm, and by spring I had rust coming through the primer. I had to wire wheel/ brake clean all of the primer ($$$ lost) back off. I then used self etching primer from a paint gun (much cheaper) then scuffed before paint. My next one will get stripped, primed, painted ( at least the main part of the tractor) when it's warm, or when I can maintain 70 degrees for a couple days to let the cast/ steel to get close to that temp.
 
Something that comes to mind, may or may not have happened, is a small amount of moisture condensation on the cold metal. A minimal slight fog of condensation, you may or may not have noticed.
 

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