Paint Recommendations

4H project, restoring a 43 john deere B.

We're on a REAL tight budget (the clubs tractor, but my wallet) -

Would like to hear some recommendations on paint.

I don't have supplied air, and kids will be painting (we do have good respirators) so I want to stay away from the real nasty stuff.

I've got a few questions.

First - I've heard the "classic" john deere green color was a marketing ploy - offering a shade that is supposed to mimick aged john deere green - so a "proper" green would be the newer green. Thoughts?

Second - I like using epoxy primer, have used PPG in the past, but man it's expensive. (especially with kids painting - they make mistakes!). I've seen cheaper types out there, but don't want to be sorry I tried saving a few bucks. Maybe I should skip the epoxy this time?

I guess just overall looking for a good paint recommendation - I'm assuming I'll go with PPG, the epoxy primer, surface, and color coat. But would like to hear if there's a cheaper alternative close to the same quality before I commit.

If you are that short on money buy the JD dealers topcoat and primer. Stay away from the farm stores. But remember that the JD primer is not going to fill many defects, which really means using a high build primer or surfacer --- more $$$. Perhaps your crew can use body filler and glazing putty carefully and cover the defects, etc, but I sure like surfacer over the filler. I am not familiar with JD, but I imagine a 43 model was a different color. JD will probably sell the latest version, or maybe the two latest versions as CaseIH does.

yeah I'm a big fan of the surfacer myself - I'll definitely use it. At least PPG's surfacer is reasonably priced.

don't suppose you know if it's ok to use the john deere stuff over ppg primer / surfacer if I were to go that route?

That's the part I hate - I'm clueless enough, but getting into mixing brands and types of paints is WAY beyond me.

Not trying to go TOO cheap - but just don't want to spend money I don't have to. I don't know the difference between say a ppg shopline paint and the direct-from-john-deere stuff.

If there isn't much difference, I'd obviously rather go with the cheaper of the two.

I don't like mixing brands either, but my guess is that the JD paint will go on without problems, hopefully a couple of others who know more than I do will answer. I think when you mix hardener, etc, of the wrong brand you will have more trouble. Use surfacer and JD over a small piece and see what happens.

PPG Omni that I use and the shopline that your dealer has are identical. JD is likely an acrylic modified alkyd enamel -- the can does not say. Meaning it has UV inhibitors to reduce fading. Omni/shopline also has modified alkyd, or they used to, and acrylic enamel which does not require hardener. You might price the acrylic enamel, it will be cheaper than urethane, but not by much.

I would use the PPG Omni epoxy primer/catylist as it is so close to top line PPG you won't tell the diff accept 1/2 price and you won't find any other "good" epoxy any cheaper. The surfacer, it sounds like you allready have a PPG in mind,good choice as the two will chemical bond together. Once you sand the surfacer then you have a mechanical bond and any top coat will work over it.If you go with a PPG product use # 43817 for green and # 81512 yellow (code 263) . Some others may give you other numbers they have used and have pics and they are fine but the newer Deere colors have too much blue in them for old tractors to look right. If you want uncatylized paint you will need either PPG in an acrylic enamel (if they still make it) or just use the JD store classic green which is the old world synthetic alkyd enamel. Sprayed correctly it will all look very nice when done it just won't age as well if left out in hot sun for days. Unless you are an experienced painter, start your painting on frame or cast parts and leave the sheet metal until last as you will then have your technique and gun adjustments down better. Don't know what equipment you are spraying with but don't make the mistake most do and that is to open the fluid wide open and then add air pressure until it atomizes correctly because you will have an uncontrolled mess and a lot of fog. Shouldn't have more than 25psi at gun (siphon type) and then start adding in fluid until it lays on wet and flat.If you need more air than that then something is wrong. Too much fluid equals a blobby orange peel usually with runs. It's the ratio of air to fluid and fan/overlap that makes or breaks the final look. The guns have adjustment knobs for a reason, and the only time the fluid/trigger knob should be wide open is for a complete paint job on an automobile, not tractor or parts. Am posting pics only for color reference.

I don't use siphon guns so I have no comment. As to HVLP the only way I set them is fluid and pattern wide open, then I set the max air at the gun as stated on the gun or in the instructions. I use a touch up gun for parts that are too small for a full size large gun pattern-that prevents me from having to adjust anything, it always works. I use a full size gun for the chassis and sometimes the sheet metal depending on the size. Probably 95% of my time is done with the small gun, since I strip the chassis of everything.

I went with the JD paint from the dealer and it turned out fine. Granted it isn't the highend stuff, but for my first paint job I was very pleased. I used it along with hardener from NAPA and reducer from NAPA. The paint came out well enough that I can see my reflection pretty clearly. I did the big no no of using rustoleum industrial primer cans (from Home Depot) under the JD green and have had no issues what so ever. I did let it dry real well and then ruffed it up before spraying the paint. Next one I do I think I will try the JD buff primer.

There are 2 different greens from JD. The modern dark green and the older classic green. They have always had to order the older green, but have had no issues with getting it in about a week or so. Last time I bought it the price was right around 80 a gallon which was a fair compromise on price (not to mention since I live in CA I have to use low VOC paints). I painted the tractor 7 years ago and while it is stored inside the whole time, it look darn near as good as the day I painted it.

In terms of imperfection filling, I used bondo and a little bit of spot putty. On the sheetmetal I used sprayable high build primer (out of a can) over the bondo and spot putty from the local auto parts store. I then was able to sand it down and make it perfectly smooth.

Just my 2cents of experience.

thanks very much guys for all the advice.

Talk to the JD dealer, might donate the paint.

Hardener is nice to work with, but absolutely not without breathing air.

JRS:

Krylon makes a real good "sandable primer" (rattle cans), it is NOT high build but if you give it several coats with proper drying time between coats it will fill slight imperfections. I've used it in both the Lt. Gray & Dk. Gray on the same project so that you can readily see when you're sanding from 1 layer into the next. I've used many different types & brands of paint over it, everything from water-base, to oil-base, to lacquer, and I haven't had any problems with it. Great stuff!

Doc