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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: Paint Finish Textured - What Happened? Need some Help

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Brad_bb

09-30-2013 13:08:47
12.161.8.178



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So are you planning to strip the parts completely? or just sand down somewhat and bodywork from there? The issue is, whatever chemical reaction happened to produce the problem, may also have an adhesion problem. So if you do new work over top of the problem paint, in a year or two it could start peeling. Then all of that additional work would be for nothing. I recommend stripping the parts. I recommend that you find a soda or plastic media blaster in your area to strip the parts back to bare metal.

Jason, $800/gallon? Isn't that a bit of an exaggeration? Maybe half that for red, yes. Red is the most expensive color. Granted I've only bought 1 gallon this last year(yellow for my forklift).
I stick with PPG because It's what I learned on and what I know. I'm sure those other name brands you mentioned are perfectly fine too. Those ARE known good brands, and they are acrylic urethane. I've use a few RM products and they are good too. It's when you get into the off brand, or the old technology paints that frankly are not up to the level of the acrylic urethanes for performance, application, durability, chemical resistance, UV resistance etc. And even worse when you are not using the correct hardener, or reducer for a given product.

Look at the labor the OP has to go through on this project- the original labor, then stripping, then starting over again and body working from scratch. He's lost more than the cost of the better products and a high quality gun, not to mention the superior finish that would come from Acrylic urethane.

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