Deep rust pits on wheel

Any suggestions on what would be best to fill these big pits on my Little Genius plow trailing wheel before replacing tire?
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I would try and find another wheel that's not pitted. You may be able to find a liner to cover the center to protect the tube. Hal
 
JB WELD I've done that to a couple of my wheels and it works good. Put it on and let it dry and sand down. Also makes putting the tire on easy as the rim is smooth.
 
As said by El Toro find a liner or new rim. As for BJ weld it would cost you more to JB weld it than what a new wheel would cost.
 
Problem is finding new anything wheel for a 1945 plow. No one has made parts for them for decades. I need to fix what I have for now.

I thought of JB Weld, POR-15, or silicone but wasn't sure how well they'd work. I know POR-15 is really tough but don't know how well it would fill such large pits. The local hardware store guy suggested spray-on flexible rubber coating that's used to seal metal joints.

Also thought of body filler but wasn't sure if that would last.

Thoughts?
 
I am doing an old Oliver plow wheel that looks the same way. I coated it with POR 15 and then use fiberglass mat and resin to cover the POR 15 filling the pockets with bondo. Coating the bondo after smoothing flat with another coat of POR 15. I welded in a patch for one section that was way thin.
 
I wonder if you could tape the sealing part of the rim and get the inside sprayed with truck bed liner? It's a kind of rubber anyway and they can put it on as thick or thin as needed.
 
Why do you want to fill them in? It will not increase the strength of the rim. You are not going to mount it tubeless. Just work down any roughness, paint it, and mount it up with a good tube. I don't believe it will harm the tube at all. I have done it rims that looked like yours.

Garry
 
POR 15 is very thin and would not work well to fill in pits. I found it you use a pick body hammer lightly in the pits they show thru to the outside. that was my reason for using fiberglass to cover the POR 15 and then smoothed the inside with bondo.
 
I agree with Garry. Just make sure you have enough mil thickness with the primer to fill the sandblast profile, and topcoat. POR-15 would work also, as long as two coats are applied with proper dry time between coats. POR-15 also makes a product called POR-patch that will fill pits also. Then topcoat with POR-15.
 
I'm going with the POR Patch and POR-15. I know this isn't a tubeless rim but the pits are pretty deep and I'm certain there will be abrasion on the tube that will eventually wear through. Thanks, PatysSD for the info on POR patch.
 
Assuming this wheel gets a tire on it, and you need a sealing surface for the tire. I've done this before, and I'm actually doing it right now(but my rims are not near as bad as in your pic).

Starting from clean bare metal, apply All-Metal filler. All metal can be used 1/8 inch thick no problem and sometimes a bit thicker if it's only in spots filling pits. All-Metal is a filler that contains ground aluminum. It is a bit tougher than regular body filler. Do you rough out work with this filler. For areas that need to be build up a bit, it's best to apply it in several coats than one thick coat so that it cures better and doesn't build up too much heat (It cures in an exothermic reaction like body filler does).

Once you've done the rough out work/filling and sanding, follow up with regular body filler or spray filler like Rust Defender from Clausen.

Your fingers will be tired at the end from all the sanding, but you'll end up with a new looking wheel with a good sealing surface. I use professional products like PPG DPLF Epoxy sealer primer, and DCU Acrylic Urethane single stage paint. It keeps your car protected for a long time...
 

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