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What kind of primer with JD paint?

J

John V.

Member
Should I use there brand primer also? Also
would rust converter be OK underneath it?
Does it work? All rattle can, doesn't have
to be perfect. Thanks, John.
 
I think if you are using rattle can paint you should use their primer as well. More than likely the JD rattle can paint is a quick dry enamel and may be too hot for somebody elses primer. If you are doing large areas you might consider buying or renting spray equipment. It's too difficult to get good results on large surfaces with rattle can paint.
 
Gas tank for a 45 combine, they cut holes in it to clean it out then patched it, going on a used machine anyway.
 
I don't think you will be happy painting the gas tank with rattle can paint. It might go great but the gas they are making today will lift the paint like you put paint and varnish remover on it. I would recommend that you prime with an epoxy primer and use a 2k urethane paint to topcoat it with. It's a lot more expensive and you would need spray equipment but it will last.
 

Go get a cheap spray gun. There have been many posts on here about for many purposes the cheap ones work perfectly good. You will be glad you did and may even find yourself looking for things to paint. I decided that I needed to paint my mower this spring. I knew that it would take more than two quarts so I got a gallon. It did not warrant costly paint so I got the cheap stuff at the dealer for $55.00. Since then I have found two more projects to shoot it onto.
 
Do as Showcrop suggested and buy a spray gun. I bought a used Devillbiss 30 years ago. I've had to rebuild it a few times parts are still available. Paid $25.00. I painted my garden tractor with it in 2010. It will put paint where a spray can or brush won't. I sprayed my vinyl shutters in 1997 with it and they still look good.
I used Sherwin Williams Super Exterior latex paint. I would use an epoxy primer. Hal
 
I'm waiting for someone to respond to your question about rust converter. I have a similar situation with a running gear and am wondering about rust converter after wire wheeling it. If I learn nothing new within the next week, I'm going with wire wheeling, rust converter, primer, and finish paint.
 
(quoted from post at 16:52:51 07/31/13) I'm waiting for someone to respond to your question about rust converter. I have a similar situation with a running gear and am wondering about rust converter after wire wheeling it. If I learn nothing new within the next week, I'm going with wire wheeling, rust converter, primer, and finish paint.
Click to expand...

Maybe no one addressed rust converter because it is a hot topic here and at any given time there are two-three threads going about it. Rust converter or acid wash are essential when dealing with rusty metal. They are all based on phosphoric acid which converts rust to inert iron phosphate. I use it a lot, but I use generic phosphoric acid. I used to use Extend but it has what I believe is a latex paint blended in to provide an additional protective coat. If you don't topcoat over it right-away it will leak and rust will continue under it. The converters instructions direct to the keep the surface wet for 15 minutes then flush with water. You will see that the rust turns black. a little heat helps. There is an almost absolute certainty that any wire wheel, media blast or whatever will leave a little rust that is not even visible that can start back to work under the paint almost immediately. When I was picking up epoxy primer and paint for my dump truck body the counter guy told me that it was mandatory to acid wash it. before priming, and I have been doing it ever since.
 
some rust conversion primers, like por 15 require a special primer to be applied over their product before anything else is applied over it. if you dont, your paint and primer will not adhere to the por 15.
 
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