First Time Electrolysis Setup

Mark Schrier · Jul 22, 2013

So having heard about this method and reading Frank in Tallahasee's article as well as Philip's (Old Iron) article on the subject I am attempting my first batch of parts, the side hoods off the 8N.

Here's a couple of pictures taken about 30 minutes after applying the power.

There is definite bubbling action at the four positive anode tubes and the location of the parts is also detected in the surface foam. I am also seeing spots of brown, hopefully loosened rust, in the surface foam above the parts.

My 10 amp charger is set on manual mode and is hanging right about 10 Amps on the dial.

I know it looks purty and clean now, but I understand that won't stay that way for long!

What I am curious about is if everything seems about as it should with this setup. Would appreciate any feedback from anyone who is experienced with it.

Thanks,

Mark Schrier

Anonymous-0 · Jul 23, 2013

Looks good . I didn't have much luck on cast.Stripper & a pressure washer works better on cast.

Dave H (MI) · Jul 23, 2013

I threw out my rigid containers for doing that a couple years back. I lay my part on the floor and lay cement block around it, one or two block high depending on part. Then I remove the part and put pond liner inside the block and lay the part back in there with electrodes attached. Add solution and power her up. When I am done I siphon the solution back into the 5 gallon pails I store it in, fold up the liner and stack the block on a pallet outside. I can do any size or shape part and I don't have a nasty tub sitting around the place.

JoeM(GA) · Jul 23, 2013

Mark, looks good to me!, and yes it will never be that clean again!
pics of some of my cleaning

Mark Schrier · Jul 23, 2013

Nice work , Joe.

I see that the adjustable container is the way to go. I know my hood is too long to fit in the recycle bin, and as long as it is taking for the paint to work loose on the two side hoods, there is no way I could wait for one end to get clean and then flip it over to do the other end.

I may have to get something better for a battery charger as well. My 10 amp unit has been getting pretty hot and kicking off a couple of times already.

What size of chargers have you guys been using with success?

Mark

bigbore · Jul 24, 2013

molasses rust removal works great on cast,it's cheap ,easy,and safer.

charlespretzer · Jul 24, 2013

What's molasses rust removal???

JoeM(GA) · Jul 24, 2013

It does work, we're talking feed grade molasses, not what you might pour on your pancakes!.

I did it one time, it does work, but the leftover liquids stunk to high heavens! Had to dump it out way down in the woods, ground smelled for quite a while, at least with my electrolysis I can pour the iron rich water out on my grass until I get close to the bottom of my container, then I pour whats left in the bottom (paint, grease and such) out ina small pail and let it dry out and then put it in the trash
some reading for ya

Mark Schrier · Jul 24, 2013

Don't let anybody kid you. Molasses can be very dangerous.
Well at least in large quantities!

I was typing molasses into a google search and the Great Molasses Flood of 1919 popped up. A bizarre and yet interesting read, if you got the time.

Anyway I has a pile of old foundations forms stacked out back that I got from the same uncle who gave me the 8N. Put them to good use building a tank and lined it with a couple of layers of 6 mil black plastic.

One thing that I didn't figure was to allow a bit more room for the plastic lining. It tends to bunch up in the corners and will be real susceptible to getting caught up by the corners of the hood.

I set a small fan up to blow air through the battery charger. That plus diluting my solution with another 15 gallons of water seemed to keep the thermal cutout happy.

Thanks,

Mark

bigbore · Jul 25, 2013

I have my molasses mix out side in a small shed,well ventilated ,and unless you open it ,you can't smell the fermented molasses.You should have poured it around you trees ,the smell goes away quickly,and is good for them!Just my opinion!I use it regularly with great results!

bigbore · Jul 25, 2013

http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/95166-cwrust-removal-tip-look?in=user
Here's a link to my How-to and some small items I cleaned to show how it worked.

Alan8n · Jul 27, 2013

Hi Mark,,your setup looks great..not wanting to invest in sand
blasters and having done the wire wheel and angle grinder thing
I was looking for a better solution and researched electrolysis
..seemed agood alternative way to go,,,
Created a permanent setup similar to yours and had good
success with it but there were 2 issues for me that made me
think about trying something else..
First it is purely line of sight so it was a pain to try and get the
electrodes it the right spots...and it simply doesen"t work if they
are not in line of sight..so I wound up wire wheeling anyway...
Second cleaning the electrodes are almost as bad as cleaning
the parts themselves...tried using bench wire wheel etc
etc..what a pain..rust dust all over etc and on badly rusted parts
youhave to clean the electrodes quite often...
I have been really considering trying the molasses thing as it
doesn"t cost much, don"t need to clean electrodes and it is NOT
line of sight...
So while electrolysis did work it has it"s drawbacks...to the point
that I probably will try the molasses thing...
God luck....Alan

CNKS · Jul 28, 2013

For small parts you can't beat a cabinet blaster, using some media other than sand. The media recirculates and can be used several times. I just wish mine was larger.

Alan8n · Jul 30, 2013

Hi Mark...
Replied to you earlier from my phone..thats why there were so many typos etc...
Got a better look at your setup today from my computer and noticed that it looks like you are using stainless...if so you may want to rethink that...using any form of stainless in the electrolysis process produces a toxic brew of hexavalent chromate (chromium) that you will not be able to get rid of....
Good luck...Alan

ASEguy · Aug 8, 2013

Looks good. I've read articles that said not to use stainless rod. If your amperage drops off clean the metal pieces around the sides of most rust and it will increase amperage flow. Be patient. I've done all the sheet metal that way on two tractors I've restored. You may want to buy Picklex 20 to prevent flash rust when the parts are done until you prep the metal for painting. Glad to see you are doing it outside. Don't smoke around it. Gerard

First Time Electrolysis Setup

Mark Schrier

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Dave H (MI)

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JoeM(GA)

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Mark Schrier

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Mark Schrier

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