water base paint?

Not in KS yet, at least where I live. Have heard that it will require a different gun. At this time it appears there are more cons than pros--someone else with more info than me will respond. As long as I can buy urethane that is what I will use.
 
the base coat is the water borne coat.you will need a different gun. also de-ionized water is used as the reducer. it is easy to shoot, and matches well. you cover with a standard urethane clear. also your base primers and sealers are the same as a urethane base. instead of baking, an air amplifier is used for drying. if the humidity is high, you will need some way to run a de-humidifier. your air supply must be extremely dry and well filtered. i havent yet made the change here to water borne, but probably will in the next year or so. you still need to suit up to shoot it, as the water base is readily absorbed thru the skin.
 
Glennster, at this time what is the advantage? If the primers are urethane based and the clear is urethane, you are still exposed to isocyanates, but I guess the EPA is more concerned with the reducer which is replaced by water in the base. -- but to some degree is still in the primers and the clear, so the EPA hasn't gotten rid of much of a contaminant, in my opinion. Deionized water theoretically contains nothing but hydrogen and oxygen. Legal or not what happens if you just use distilled water. As you can see I don't look forward to this.
 
It is just the EPA,s tripping over dollar bills to pick up pennies. That "ya gotta start somewhere" BS! Someone needs to keep their "govt created job". The base coat portion of the complete job has the least amt of volume of any of it but it's the "low hanging fruit" so to speak so someone keeps their job for now.
 
When water based paint becomes all that is available I will then quit painting.
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its not the isocyanates, its the volatile organic componds (voc) emissions. for a typical gallon of base color, there is about 6 and a quarter pounds of solvents in the paint. waterborne cuts that in half. epa mandates required a reduction in voc's starting in the california area to help reduce smog. by using the water born, it brings the emmisions in line with the new laws. 70 percent of the new cars sold today carry a water born refinish. it is easy to apply, but takes an upgrade in equipment. there is a water born clear, but as far as i know, it is only used in o.e.m applications at the factory when the cars are built. as far as using the de-ionized water, each paint mfr has there own water to be used with their product. to meet the warranty, you need to use ALL of their product line. it keeps any paint mixed any where consistent. as you well know from reading posts on this forum, you see all too often novice painters will substitute other products that so-and-so told them its ok to use, and they have a paint disaster, then blame the paint line. water born is a quality product, as durable as any of the urethanes out there, is easy to apply, and easy to tint and match colors. altho its a fairly new product, it has been out there for a while, and has a proven track record.
 
"The base coat portion of the complete job has the least amt of volume of any of it but it's the "low hanging fruit" so to speak so someone keeps their job for now."
That's what I meant--until they convert everything else it won't have much effect. For me, epoxy primer and the base coat takes the least amount of time, meaning in my situation a minimum amount of VOC's are released. I also understand what Glennster said about the warranty being effective only with the companies deionized water. If I am ever forced into water base, the first thing I will try is distilled water--As a hobbiest there is no need to worry about warranties. However how does the "water" work as a reducer? Something has to be added to it to make it a reducer, such as the need to adjust for temperature. Apparently there are some trace elements in distilled water that interfere with whatever is added to make it a reducer?
 

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