Best coating for wheels?

Goin to have the back rims on my M John Deere sandblasted to get them cleaned up nice.
What should I do before I mount new tires? Spray them with epoxy primer, then top coat? Is powder coat a option or would that be a bad idea?
I already have some Dupont epoxy primer that I was gonna do my truck with and never got around to it. Thanks for any help.
 
if i have the time. i like to clean to bare metal.. then epoxy prime and paint my rims. sure seems to help.
 

Someone posted about powder coating wheels a while back and said that they did not get nicked or scratched while mounting the tires. My experience is that whenever powder coat gets nicked or scratched down to bare steel the rust travels very quickly under it and soon the coating is blowing away.
 
And you can't knick or scratch paint down to bare metal or is it if you knick or scratch paint to bare metal it just don't rust?

I must be missing something.
 
Question is this , are these rim/center wheels in perfect condition surface wise? Unless they are new or nos I can't believe they aren't pitted. These are stamped steel and not cast wheels so you are going to want them smooth. That means blast / epoxy primer / urethane primer surfacer and/or glaze filler to fill the pits and then paint. Powder coat doesn't fill pits. Pits look awfull on a shiney wheel. I'm sure you could powder coat them if smooth , and tape them to mount tires and not get chips , the same as you should do with paint. Lay them on cardboard with the back side up. Duct tape the rim edge and soap it up and mount tire from back side. Untape carefully before airing up.
 
I would say if the the rims are rusty do rusty metal primer first with a BRUSH. or if not too rusty use rgular primer with a brush. then do the paint you want 2 coats with brush.
 
As far as I know the factory style "wafer rim" for a m is not available new.
Can I go over it with por15 after I get them sandblasted?
They don't look pitted just light rust and many many layers of paint.
 
powder coat is like a capsule that surrounds the part. If you scratch it/go through to metal, moisture has a tendency to creep under the coating that is still there and knock it off. I powder coated some rims and won't do it again. Powder coat won't hide anything underneath in terms of scratches, dents, sanding marks etc. I will always epoxy prime, couple coats of color and let it dry good. Then if it were to get chipped I would simply have to touch up with a little bit of paint, I wouldn't have to worry about the rest of the wheel.
 
Once I removed all visible rust I used Picklex followed by epoxy primer then topcoated with the same company's MAE. I used all PPG paint products.
 
(quoted from post at 17:10:03 05/21/13) And you can't knick or scratch paint down to bare metal or is it if you knick or scratch paint to bare metal it just don't rust?

I must be missing something.

Yes you are missing something. The point that I want to make is that due to the lack of primer under powder coat, once the moisture gets under it, it travels much faster than under primed paint, and the rust causes the powder coat to lift.
 
You can but I don't see the point. POR stands for paint over rust and that is what it is intended for. You don't have any rust if you blast them. That is the perfect time and condition for the use of epoxy primer. That is the best foundation and what you do after that will decide the look you want.I f they come from the blaster smooth and no pits then just clean, prime and color coat within the re-coat window of time.
 
Well you're going to the expense to get them sand blasted and you already have epoxy primer. So I'd go that route with a top coat of urethane paint.

On machinery I've wire brushed/sanded the rims and just painted them with machinery paint from the dealer and had pretty good luck. If they are silver or white they stand up pretty good. Yellow, reds etc. in JD,CIH machinery paint will fad in a few years if left outside alot.
 
Probly the wrong powder coating material.

Proper powder coating of car frames will have a high heat epoxy primer applied first and a powder coating material that will resist chipping over the primer. I would think that rims would fall under the same procedure along with most farm machinery frames.

Powder for powder coating is plastic powder. There are many powder material choices available.
In the 1950 I heard many people say they wouldn't buy any of that cheap plastic junk. Many items back then were made from the wrong plastic choice which caused the items to fail. The same is for powder coating now.
The powder coated tubing I salvaged and used to make my feeders and horse trimming stocks is hard to remove with an angle grinder.

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The feeder has been thru two winters and there is no lifting of any of the powder coat that has not been ground off for welding. I don't know what material was used as they were guards shipped with a robot system I bought in 1990.
 
Use the epoxy primer. I used that on my old lawn trailer rims. I should've removed the tires when it was new and sprayed them with epoxy or acid paint. It has never been sheltered and there were pin holes from the rust. I put tubes in the old tires. I also used a surfacer over the primer followed by acrylic enamel. Hal
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