Concept with Omni clear? is this ok?

Damon K.

Member
Would this work well or am I crazy?
Im going to restore a Farmall 560, Im using PPG Concept single stage paint that I really like. After I shoot my last coat of Concept I am planning on following with 2-3 coats of Omni MC161 clear coat. The reason I want to do this is for the "added protection" and extra shine.
Im starting to second guess myself... spraying Omni clear coat over Concept? Is that a good idea? will it turn out better with extra protection?
Thanks for the Input!!
P.S. the reason I didnt buy the "good" PPG clear is because it so expensive! The concept almost broke me :)
 
I have sprayed that Omni clear and hated it.( course it's probably because I'm used to the good stuff) You would be going backwards putting a lesser quallity product over a top of the line product. That would be a lot of extra mil thickness that make it very suceptable to easy chipping and deep chips. Tune up your skills and equipment and there's no reason you can't get the wet look out of just the Concept. As far as protection , there should be quite a bit of UV screeners in a premium product like Concept. It's a quallity deal, you won't need clear over it.
 
I don't have the experience of B-maniac, so I like Omni clear. He is right about Concept, But if you are trying to save money, use the Omni base and put 3 coats of Omni clear over it. I use base-clear because I can't keep the cooties out of my paint, so I have to color sand and buff it. With Omni MTK it is too easy to buff to the primer and also remove a lot of the clear already in Omni--with base-clear I don't have the problem. I can't afford Concept base-clear.
 
Hi,
The reason I went with concept is because its great paint and easy to work with. I have been painting awhile and it does turn out real nice. This tractor is very special to me and thats why I thought I would cover it with a little extra clear at the end. But If you think that is a bad idea than maybe I will reconsider. I could wet sand and buff the Concept on the tin work, but to be honest, after buffing Concept it just doesnt bring than shine out like others.
Maybe I should have bought base coat and clear coat. To late now I have bought all the stuff. But I could bring the Omni clear back...
 
Nothing was said in the original post about sanding and buffing. If that is a plan or you want that option then yes, I would put the clear over it. Never sand a single stage color and try to buff back. Yes you will get it to shine again but you are losing the minute layer of clear and uv protection that floats to the surface of a single stage paint to give it it's shine. It will compromise the durability/looks of the paint. If you clear it , use at least two full wet coats as you don't want to risk sanding through it into color. Sounds like it will be a nice piece when done. Post us some pics. RB
 
B-maniac,
I never knew that about a single stage paint, not to wet sand and buff, thats a good piece of info!
In your opinion would you wet sand down the Concept and clear it with this Omni MC161 that I have?? Im talking on just the tin work, (of coarse not wet sanding the whole tractor.) Or do you believe the Concept being left alone would be better shine and protection??
Im now understanding that the Omni line now turns yellow after a few years, and chips easy, doesnt last very long. Have you heard of that? In know way do I want to make a bad choice and having this tractor turn to crap after a few years!
Thanks for your input!!
 
CNKS,
Just asking a question, have you seen the pieces you have done, after a few years of doing them? Some people have said that the Omin clear turns yellow after a few years and doesn't last very long. Is that true? I have never used it. If it does work well and lasts than I wouldn't mind starting to use it time to time. It is a lot cheaper than PPG top line.
Just wondering what you think of it?
Thanks for your input!
 
I have used Omni for over 10 years, and it does not turn yellow. It does chip fairly easily, particularly on cast, but so do other paints. You asked B-maniac about wet sanding Concept, but in my opinion, unless you have some defects such as the lint, etc that settle in my paint, leave it alone. As B said Concept has enough UV protection that it does not need it. The 161 will give more, but if it looks good already, leave it alone and quit while you are ahead. But, as far as Omni, the base clear system is much better than single stage and I will never return to single stage Omni. If I used Concept and could keep it clean I probably wouldn't say that. The Omni base is about the same price as single stage Omni MTK urethane, 161 adds about $100/gallon.
 
I misread your post as to the yellow clear. When I said I had used Omni for 10 years I meant MTK single stage urethane, the first 161 I used was about 5 years ago, it has not turned yellow. I don't know why it would.
 
I used OMNI MC161 clear on the hood of my AC-B 11 years ago. That tractor stays outside ALL the time so it sees the sun whenever the sun shines, summer and winter. I have not noticed any yellowing. I've also used Concept. If you get a decent Concept application why bother to clear it at all? Unless you paint all the time on a professional basis, every additional coat you add just provides more of an opportunity for an error to occur. If it looks good after the Concept, I'd leave it at that and admire the job. You won't get any significant benefit from the clearing, either with the OMNI or the top-of-the-line clear.
 
Damon K , it sounds like you have allready painted it and are not quite happy with the results. If that is the case then what you have to decide is what the resulting defects are and what caused them and whether or not the same defects would result from applying two more coats of clear. If you think you have a handle on it and can get a better result but don't want to spend the money to re-coat it with Concept , then I would go ahead and wet sand and Omni Clear it. No , I havn't heard of it yellowing. Ya have to take it with a grain of salt on some of these rumors. Maybe they put on 10 coats or maybe too much hardner etc who knows? NOW , if you havn't allready painted it then I would just do the best you can on the Concept job. That said , though , if you aren't happy with the results or there are too many imperfections then I would go wet on wet over the Concept unless the tech data sheet says otherwise. Wet on wet is a superior bond between the color and clear as apposed to letting it dry and wet sanding it for adhesion. If you are spraying it in parts then do just the sheet metal as a group and leave off the fans while you spray the 1st coat until 5-10 min after you are done. Then turn on the fans to clear room or booth. Do the same for the second and succeeding coats.. Moving air means moving particles , you can't filter them all out so let them settle. Keep your air pressure down to minimize overspray and on those few parts you won't have explosion problem. The one mistake a lot of painters make is they leave the fluid knob on the gun wide open and then they have to up the atomizing air to get the correct ratio to atomize all that volume. Shut down the volume and the air by 1/3 and you won't believe how smooth it goes on and with out a lot of overspray to get rid of....which means less fan and less air/dust moving past your paint job. Practice on the cast or non-fussy parts/areas. Wet down shop and spray for insects the night before. Best to paint in the morning as all dust has settled and insects dead and air is still. RB
 
I was thinking of wet sanding the tin work, to take out any possible waves, orange peel, dirt, whatever. Then clear over the top. just dont wont to use the wrong clear. (bad clear).
The reason I ask about the yellowing, is because a few people said it does that, I didnt know if there was any truth to that.
Thanks
 

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