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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: Paint for truck deck

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B-maniac

04-24-2013 07:58:39
97.85.59.154



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You got the first two priorities and that is to blast and then I would have them apply two coats of 2 component epoxy primer. Not that it needs two to do it's job but not many are that thorough as far as coverage so it gives a second chance for the spots they miss. As far as paint , I would just use the cheap stuff but make sure they put plenty on. I wouldn't even use the hardner so it will leave the paint slightly uncured and a little more flexible and maybe hold off the stone chips for a while longer. When you grind into an uncatylized enamel job after abt 9 months, it will still turn gooey on the grinder disc. Fade won't be too bad as you said it is inside most of time. No top cote will hold up to big stone chips but it will take the brunt and hopefully leave the epoxy intact underneath to prevent rust. I have not seen epoxy chip very often and when it does it will be a minor chip and won't undermine and become a big flake.

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Chase_99

04-24-2013 12:09:33
66.181.210.29



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 Re: Paint for truck deck in reply to B-maniac, 04-24-2013 07:58:39  
Yeah I haven't decided just yet what route to go as its going to cost some $$ to sand blast so I want a good job. Last year on the truck hoist I got it blasted then and I used the 2 part epoxy and 2 part polyurathane paint from Endura as recmoneded by the sand blaster. Its seems like good stuff really hard finish, nice gloss (would be great on a tractor) but I notice its not immune to ... rocks chips! Then it starts get rust pits. Granted it will hold the color way better then machinery enamels. Also that stuff is nasty and if I use it again I'm getting an air supplied mask.

Another product I've used is Zero-rust paint on frame parts. Its a durable non-cataylzed product that stands up well and not too pricey. I would have to be top coated to get the right color.

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