Bondo ontop of powder coat to smooth out the surface? ya/na?

Cordova Steve · Mar 29, 2013

I had an old late 40's early 50's EWC wagon powder coated in green to make a "parade haywagon" out of it. As I look at it from the rear the metal is dimpled. I was going to put a decal in that area. I think it will look like hell. I don't know much about body work but I was told I could DA the powder coat down, put bondo over it , then re-shoot it with paint. What's your thoughts

D beatty · Mar 29, 2013

Your going to have to take it down to bare metal if you want it to adhere and stay in place.

Stephen Newell · Mar 30, 2013

The thing about baked on enamel is the layer of paint you have on there now will melt when you put it back in the oven. If you fill with bondo and put back in the oven the bondo will float to the surface. The bondo will have to go directly on the metal.

Cordova Steve · Mar 30, 2013

What about just spray painting that area after the bondo work is done, and not putting it in an oven? Thanks for your replies fella's!

D beatty · Mar 30, 2013

You are going to have to take the powder off and go down to bare mental and than bondo it and than paint over the bondo. Bondo does not bond good to painted surfaces.

RandyB(MI) · Mar 30, 2013

Just rough it up with 180-220 grit paper and clean it good and make sure you work the bondo with some pressure to get full adhesion. I have , once or twice , inadvertantly gotten a drop of bondo on a chrome bumper before and you play #ell getting it off once it cures. You will have no problem doing it the way you said. Whenever I have to fix a bunch of minute door dings in a car , I never grind it down to metal. No need to and makes no sense to. RB

D beatty · Mar 30, 2013

Directions tell to go to bare metal for best results. I have tried what you said and after two or three years it starts to come loose where its feathered. If your go to bare metal I have never had one come loose.

thebigyellowtruck · Mar 31, 2013

bondo will adhere decently to primer, but not so
well to paint. If i were you I would go buy some
glaze coat after roughing up the area with 150 grit
and just fill you imperfections with that then sand
smooth, primer over your repair sand smooth again
then paint to match the surrounding powder coat.
I've done everything from complete restores to used
car lot hack jobs when I worked in a body shop. This
will work as long as you do your prep work
correctly.
glaze coat

RandyB(MI) · Mar 31, 2013

With all due respect ,D , I have restorations out there over 15 yrs old and have NEVER had a failure or been able to detect where I repaired using that method over grinding to bare metal. I probably should say "glaze cote" as apposed to "bondo" though since it has a lot finer consistancy . It's all bondo to me and it simply does not need bare metal to adhere correctly. Been doing it for a living since 1971. People who make body filler don't have to make a living with it. If you have 15 small door dings down each side of a car , you are doing no-one a favor by grinding the whole side down or each individual one down to metal to fill.

Bondo ontop of powder coat to smooth out the surface? ya/na?

Cordova Steve

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D beatty

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Stephen Newell

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Cordova Steve

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D beatty

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RandyB(MI)

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D beatty

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thebigyellowtruck

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