Sherwin Williams Paint recommendations

jsborn

Member
I am new to painting and need some help with what type and safety precautions to take to spray small and large parts on my JD 4020. Can someone recommend a type /system of Sherwin Williams paint to use on a 1965 JD 4020 . I would also like to find the correct codes for the Green and yellow if possible.
What is the best way to mix and spray smaller amounts of paint and primer so as not to have a lot of waist.
 
When using small batches the best thing you can do to minimize waste is to use a gravity feed sprayer. It will spray to the last drop where a siphon sprayer will need a couple of ounces for the tube to pick up. That way the only waste is overestimating how much for each job. You don't have to spend big bucks on a sprayer. Harbor Freight sprayers work fine. If you're not using a two part paint it doesn't matter because what is left over you can put in another can or jar until the next time. Any paint you spray is hazardous and any that are two part are especially hazardous especially if you find the word isocyanate on any part of it. A person really needs a fresh air supplied respirator to use paint with isocyanate hardener. It will go through a conventional paint respirator and put a major hurt on you even using one or two gallons. I'm not familiar with Sherwin Williams automotive line of paints. In the industrial line of paint, for a tractor or implement I would recommend Sher Kem enamel. If you use the hardener with it, it does contain isocyanate. It's the polyurethane in the paint. In order for it to achieve it's true hardness the isocyanate creates a chemical reaction with the polyurethane.
 
Thanks for the info, I have looked at the Sher-chem paint and it says it can be sprayed with or with out the hardener so from what you said it would be safer without correct?
What would be the difference in final gloss and durability without the hardener?
Does anyone happen to have the codes for 1964 John Deere green and yellow for the Sher-kem paint?
 
The hardener is what makes the paint especially hazardous. It is what contains the isocyanite.
The paint would perform more like an automotive urethane with the hardener but still much better than a alkyd enamel without the hardener. I doubt if you could see any difference with the initial appearance after painting with it. It just wouldn't last as long. As dangerous as the stuff is I'm surprised it is so ready available to the public. The enamel hardener that Tractor Supply sells to put in enamel paint is much the same thing and is equally dangerous. It must be their substitute for having to take lead out of paint which is far less hazardous. Painting one tractor a person could inhale enough isocyanite through a brand new conventional respirator that their lungs would be that of a life long chain cigarette smoker.
 
Use a touchup gun on the smaller parts. The only places I use a full size gun on are the chassis, rear wheels and sheet metal, as I remove everything from the tractor. Perhaps 95% of my time is with a HVLP touch up gun, surprising how much one of those will do. The smaller pattern means less paint is wasted. If you are using hardener, supplied air is essential.
 
I took your advise on the touch up gun when I painted my first tractor and it was so much easier to use. It felt like an extension of my hand and not I was trying to paint with a quart of oil weighing me down. Good advice. Thanks.
 
I used Sherman Williams on this Model A. It is the 3rd Dimension 5.0 single stage line. You can go to their web site and get all the info on it. This was the first time I used it and I am very happy with it. It was good to work with and looks great. I had to play around to get the shading like I wanted. The SW code for the green was F9A and as I said I tinted it some from there. I don't have the yellow code with me but it was spot on right out of the can.

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Thanks for the info. I am leaning to the Sher-kem line at this time and was hoping to get the codes for it if possible.
 
I doubt if you can find a code for that line of paint. If you take them a sample of the paint color they can computer match it.
 
MR. D Scott nice tractor you done a great job. But i do have a question the light on the front were did you get that and the bracket. I am redoing a 1937 A and seen one on a unstyled tractor in photos but this is the first one i have ever seen. Would like to add that to mine when all finished if i new were to get it. Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 08:53:03 03/21/13) MR. D Scott nice tractor you done a great job. But i do have a question the light on the front were did you get that and the bracket. I am redoing a 1937 A and seen one on a unstyled tractor in photos but this is the first one i have ever seen. Would like to add that to mine when all finished if i new were to get it. Thanks

Thanks! I bought that front light bracket 2-3 years ago and it's the only one I have ever seen in person. It is a Deere factory part (#A2209R), has the JD logo cast into it and it's listed in the parts manual. I have seen pics of one on a B and an H.
 
Chuck
Nice looking tractor. You said you used hardener did you use the V66V1020 hardener? What type respirator did you use while spraying it? What type gun and reducer or thinner did you use. I am still new to this paint stuff and need all the help I can get :) so please excuse all the questions.
 
Here's a link for SW paint locations. I had a Chevy Citation painted using Sherwin Williams acrylic enamel. You can contact your local SW store to see if the have paint codes for tractors. If you're planning on using hardener you need a supplied air system. You don't want to use just a resporator and breathe that hardener. Hal
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Here's Rod's paint codes for tractors using PPG or Dupont paint. I've heard Sherwin Williams supply's paint to PPG and Dupont. Sherwin Williams can probably cross-reference PPG's or Dupont's paint codes. Hal
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