majic paint problems

Ted rauh

New User
I am haveing problems with the paint sticking. I sandblasted
the metal, primed most pieces with rustoleum self etching
primer, others with just rustoleum primer. The primer has
been dryed sufficiently. I painted some parts with a brush a
week ago and I can still scrape the paint off with my
fingernail. I originally thought it was a temperature issue so I
tried painting some small parts inside. 5 days later it still
scraped right off. I have tried everything even painting
lighter coats but same results. Has anyone else had issues
with the paint sticking or setting up? I have heated my
garage for the last week and still not dry.
 
I finished painting a Ford lift disk and the temperature was colder than I like. Adding hardener and thin with Acetone was a winner for me.
 
When you go to all that trouble in prepration I would use an epoxy primer. I would buy the primer and finish coat from the same auto paint store. If you're going to use hardener you need a supplied air system. You don't want to breathe any of that. Hal
 
That sounds pretty normal for alkyd enamel with no hardener. Rustoleum primer is an enamel primer that takes several days to dry completely. So with a slow drying primer combined with slow drying paint with no hardener it will take a long time to for both of them to dry completely. I saw a guy who painted his tractor with valspar from TSC lay his hand on top of the motor two weeks after it was painted. When he leaned up against the tractor the paint just peeled back where his hand was at and that was in the summertime.
 
More than likely the Majic paint is incompatable with the Rustoleum primer. It's usually a good idea to use the same brand primer as the paint you are using so it might have worked if you had used Majic primer. It's easy to think primer is primer but a lot of times some paint won't adhere to some primers.
 
I guess at this point the question is do I sandblasWhat paintt the paint and primer off or give this paint another week or two to adhere. what paint does everyone recommend. This is on a old hay rake that I was planning on useing in a couple months.
 
The paint is adhered as well right now as it's going to get. You could keep touching up the paint as it comes off or go ahead and take it off and start over. If it were me I would go ahead and use it like it is and at the end of the season sandblast it and do it over. As far as recommending a paint, that would depend on if you could get the means of spraying the paint. If so I would recommend Sher Kem enamel from Sherwin Williams. If you are going to brush it I would use their industrial maintenance enamel.
 
then he did somerthing wrong in prep or application.

probably 18 of my 20+ tractors have valspar paint on them. a few have hason.. some have IH paint.

i like the nason quik cure hardner the best.... I have painted stuff that was fingerprint safe in 30m
 
I think (as i had this problem) it was your self etching primer. I also used it and it dries to a hard glass surface like a finished product which is very hard to sand. and unless you really scuff it the paint does scratch off as it does not adhere. I prefer a high build industrial primer as you have to sand it also but only to feather cut areas and to remove lint and overspray. with the TCS paint you do need the catalyst hardner, thats why their paint is $29.00 a gal. $200.00 for a good quality paint is normal. total paint cost on my 600 was $672.86
 
I just sprayed my tractor with Majic paint five days ago,and I can still easily scrape it off with my fingernail. I did not add hardener. Also this was not over primer. I too need to know what to do next.
 

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