urethane paint

Garri

Member
I painted one of our Allis Chalmers tractors a few years ago with what I think was urethane paint. The man I got the paint from got it from his supplier, but wouldn't tell me who the supplier was or who made the paint. The paint can was just plain silver with no labels. He gave me a soda bottle with toluene in it and told me to add a little to the gallon for thinner. I did as he said, and it was the best paint I have ever used. The color was right on and sprayed beautifully. I am painting a Massey 65 and would like to find the same paint, but I don't know where to look. I have painted about 20 tractors and have used the cheap paint and the expensive auto paint, but the urethane was the best and I only paid $30 - $40 for the gallon. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Any help will be appreciated.
 
I don't know what you had, but urethane is not thinned with tolulene (unless the correct reducer contains toluene, which it likely does) and must have hardener to cure. If you did not use hardener it is definitely not urethane. These will cost you about 150/gallon, including hardener plus reducer--PPG Omni, Dupont Nason. You can also get equivalent urethane from Martin Senour, sold by NAPA. I have used only PPG Omni acrylic urethane.
 
I usually use Martin Senour crossfire. I have used Dupont Nason, but prefer the martin senour. I'm not a good enough painter to know why, it just seemed "better". That said, I hate to spend $200 plus a gallon for farm machinery. I have been using Magnet paint on some implements. They have a website, but you have to call to order. They have urethane, acrylic enamel, and enamel. About 1/2 price, but only available in some colors. Easy to work with, and the color holds up real well.
Josh
 
Sounds like quick dry enamel to me. That is thinned with toluene. I don't know what you paid for it but it's a lot cheaper than urethane. A urethane is usually a catalyzed finish.
 
If you guys don't mind, fill me in on what urethane paint is. The best I can recall, the man I got the paint from said it was urethane. I really don't remember though. What I do remember is I did not have to add hardener and I only added about 4 ounces of the clear liquid he gave me in the pop bottle. That is all I had to do to spray it. It didn't have a lot of over spray. That paint sprayed like liquid silk. So smooth, and it has been real durable and held the color great. It is a whole lot better than the Van Sickle and other implement paint I have used in the past. I would like to find something similar to that. The customer I'm painting this Massey for is going to use the tractor some, but yet he wants it show quality. Thanks
 
I would agree with others, urethane will not harden without hardener, probably was enamel. I use NAPA urethane.
 
A urethane is a plastic, actually it's polyurethane made from urethane resins, the poly coming from the word polymer. The cheap polyurethane used in your house on woodwork is watered down and may only contain a small amount of polyurethane compared to automotive urethane’s. A polyurethane can be used without hardener however when mixed with isocyanide hardeners creates a chemical reaction which makes for a much harder and more durable paint. If isocyanides are mixed with the urethane you mix only what you intend to use because what is left over will harden in the can. There are many different kinds of paint a person can paint a tractor including a lot of automotive paints. What you have to keep in mind is most paints are not formulated to withstand oils and chemicals you would get on a tractor and a urethane will hold up much better.
 
Plese pardon the correction. Hardener contains isocyaNATES. I don't believe it is cyanide, which will kill a person pretty quick--I have not studied the MSDS.
 
There are urethane modified alkyds which are a step up from alkyds but how big a one is questionable. They are much cheaper than the real urethanes and don't need a hardener. Some manufacturers call them urethane enamels which can be a little misleading.
 
With the current state of uninforced and sometimes uninforcable anti-trust and truth in advertising laws in this country , it is open game on the unsuspecting consumer. They can call their "bargain" product anything they want (and usually do)to get your money. Not unlike other products/services sold in this country , it is definately "buyer beware". Lot of bargain junk out there.
 
I think I used some form of cyanide to kill ground squirrels that were eating sunflower and sorghum seed in my plots after planting in the 90's. I was careful to hold it downwind and wore a mask most of the time. I would drop a pill in in the hole and cover with my foot. It helped but I couldn't get them all.
 
(quoted from post at 02:58:15 02/20/13) Josh, you said you used magnet paint. I could not find it. Do you have their web site or phone number?
www.magnetpaints.com
1-800-922-9981
I've used their paint. It's okay and they were good to deal with.
DWF
 
(quoted from post at 16:04:29 02/20/13) I think I used some form of cyanide to kill ground squirrels that were eating sunflower and sorghum seed in my plots after planting in the 90's. I was careful to hold it downwind and wore a mask most of the time. I would drop a pill in in the hole and cover with my foot. It helped but I couldn't get them all.

It wouldn't work in your plots, but when I worked in ag retail we would use anhydrous ammonia. If we had to change a valve or aything like that we had to drain them down to no pressure. That was a good way to utilize the otherwise wasted product.

Just got back from giving a presentation on in season testing. I went over PPNT, PSNT, Tissue testing, and SCN testing. Fun times! Any ideas on research I should do on soil sampling and getting quality results?
 
The commercial companies are ok for the most part. Sounds like you already know how to soil sample. Tissue testing is more complicated, something I have not done. Also the abbreviations PPNT, PSNT and SCN I am not familiar with. Been retired since 2001, your answer may or may not register in my head -- Who do you work for? I was a research agronomist for Kansas State University for 29 years at Garden City, KS. Tractor hobby is a return to my early years to keep me from becoming nuts.
 
Most farmers don't have time to do soil sampling to the extent that you do it. For corn in western KS, there is less and less side dressing, nearly all is under center pivots, planted flat and minimum or no till. There is some dryland corn (no yield the last 2 years because of the current drought), but there is also some furrow irrigated corn and grain sorghum. Very little cultivation, fertilizer usually preplant followed by anhydrous before it gets to big for the tractor to get in. I think most farmers have commercial soil samplers, and due to the large acreage the same company monitors the fields and schedules or at least tells the farmer when to spray for insects. Also some soybeans but I know little about them because most of my work was dryland where beans can't usually be grown. Also a LOT of irrigated alfalfa around here. I think most farmers know that you can't beat soil testing, also a typical retailer might have his own ideas about selling more fertilizer, but you'll be ok. The crop occupying the most acres is still winter wheat, probably 3/4 dryland and 25% irrigated. Dryland is either rotated with corn or sorghum with a 10-11 month fallow period between crops or a 15 month period between crops if all dryland to store water. The dryland crops don't use much fertilizer.
 
Absolutely nothing, it got out of hand and should have been done by email. I apologize, because I don't like to see it happen, then I did it.
 
(quoted from post at 19:03:35 02/21/13) ....aaand so what do these two posts have to do with urethane ??? lol

Me, too. Maybe I can blame it on this site not having PM capability. :lol: Another thing I would like to blame it on is not being able to find an email address anymore. I know my profile has my email in it, but when you look at a post in classic view it says "no email." What do you have to do to make it work?
 
I use epoxy primer on the drive train ( cast iron parts ) which has a catalyst it mixes with. Is states it is impervious to chemicals.
I use 2K urethane sandible primer on sheet metal parts.
I use urethane single stage paint over both primers. It has a reducer and an activator/hardener that mixes with it. It all cost too much in my opinion.
All these products are PPG
 
I use epoxy primer on the drive train ( cast iron parts ) which has a catalyst it mixes with. Is states it is impervious to chemicals.
I use 2K urethane sandible primer on sheet metal parts.
I use urethane single stage paint over both primers. It has a reducer and an activator/hardener that mixes with it. It all cost too much in my opinion.
All these products are PPG
 
I hope you mean you also use epoxy primer on the sheet metal and follow it with the sandable urethane surfacer. Urethane does not attach itself to bare metal like epoxy will.
 

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