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Re: Grit

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Author  [Modern View]

12-04-2012 17:04:02

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I color sand and buff the last coat of urethane (1200-2000 grit) on sheet metal, but only to remove the "cooties" that I can't prevent from getting in the paint. Rims have enough roughness in them that you really need to mess up to have to sand them, the cooties are hard to find and blend in with the texture of the metal. Put on 3 normal coats of urethane with hardener with 5-15 minutes between coats, using the right reducer for the temperature and they will be nearly perfect. As Gordo says sanding between coats is reserved for lacquer, IMO the worlds worst paint. Also if you sand single stage urethane you can remove the clear in it which gives the UV protection, as it "floats" to the top. Since I usually have to sand, I use base-clear, which give a better finish and the ultimate in UV protection.

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David G

12-04-2012 19:14:29

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 Re: Grit in reply to CNKS, 12-04-2012 17:04:02  
Tell me about the clear

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12-05-2012 08:12:21

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 Re: Grit in reply to David G, 12-04-2012 19:14:29  
In single stage the clear is added to the paint during mixing (by the dealer) according to specifications given by the manufacturer. In base clear, the base is dull when applied, the clear is applied over the base and brings out color. That system has been used on all cars and trucks since the late 80's, was probably around before that. It adds one more step to the painting, but is worth it to me. If you can keep the crud out in your painting enviornment, you really don't need base-clear, except it does give a somewhat brighter finish, probably the most important feature is the added UV portection. You can also put clear over single stage, but I see no advantage to that when compared to base clear. I believe you can add more clear to single stage in the last coat, also.
This post was edited by CNKS at 08:17:23 12/05/12.

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