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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: painting question

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CNKS

07-04-2012 06:38:53
216.144.104.128



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Showcrop, my point is that Picklex 20 will do everything that you say. You can brush it on and forget about it until you are ready to paint, then scuff it with a scothbrite pad and remove most of the rest of the white residue with wax and grease remover. The instructions say it can be painted over, but I don't paint over residue, which is one reason I don't use true rust converters. Picklex is expensive but it goes a LONG way. I was told about it 10 years ago by a long term painter, who told me to forget metal prep, which is about the same as what you are using. I used Picklex over a sanded and mostly clean hood also 10 years ago. There was some residual rust I could not sand out, before I started using the fiber wheel. The rust was neutralized. I have never seen rust bubble on anything because there is no rust when I paint. Pro body guys (I will exclude B Maniac and Glennster, because they know what they are talking about) are for the most part "shortcut guys" who want to get done and make money off someone else. I can prepare surfaces better than they do because I take the time to do it right. Don't take me wrong, there is nothing wrong with what you are doing, it just takes more time, and you have to be sure the surface is absolutely dry, with Picklex you don't have to do that. It appears that I am going to tell people what I do, you are going to say what you do, so on this forum that "conflict" is always going to be here -- so be it. Done properly they both work.

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B-maniac

07-06-2012 17:26:19
97.85.62.26



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 Re: painting question in reply to CNKS, 07-04-2012 06:38:53  
( thanks for the compliment,CNKS).



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showcrop

07-04-2012 10:37:51
75.67.231.80



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 Re: painting question in reply to CNKS, 07-04-2012 06:38:53  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

CNKS, You have I believe mentioned a few times that you are in Arizona. Here in NH it seems nothing ever gets really dry without a little help. So rust, and thus pits, thrive. A few years ago I took a'67 car down from a storage rack after not looking at it for maybe three years and found a damp place under a floor mat despite the dry air of three winters. Perhaps the climate difference has to do with our different observations. I am never pressed for time with my hobby work so I can take the time to let the iron phosphate dry completely.

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CNKS

07-04-2012 15:13:16
216.144.104.128



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 Re: painting question in reply to showcrop, 07-04-2012 10:37:51  
I'm in southwest Kansas, not as dry as as Arizona. Maybe 5 inches of rain so far this year, 18 average/year, daytime humidity 10-20% can be 100% early in the morning but it doesn't last. You have high humidity in NH, plus salt air, you do have to take more precautions. Although I mention it, I seldom see the need for phosphoric acid, Picklex included. As to Picklex, I only use it in out of the way places I simply cannot get to. I am not going to wash off anything close to the time I paint. It is not the Fe phosphate it is the flash rust that happens immediately when water is used in NH, KS, AZ and anyplace else. Picklex does not need to be washed off, thus no flash rust to contend with. It will prevent rust from forming for months as long as it is inside. In your case, with the salt air even Picklex needs to be watched. We really don't disagree, it is just how each of us gets there.

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