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Re: painting question

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mark basinger

07-03-2012 17:57:36

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So here are the steps I have read about in this forum:
1. Remove paint with oven cleaner and cup brush on angle grinder for cast parts.
2. Sand Blast sheet metal.
3. Clean with wax and grease remover
4. Wash with phosphoric acid
5. Picklex 20 if it can"t be primed right away.Sheet metal only?
6. Surfacer to fill in small pits.
7. Epoxy Primer (how many coats?)
8. sand primer
9. Paint with PPG Omni MP 170

Am I close?

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07-03-2012 18:27:45

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 Re: painting question in reply to mark basinger, 07-03-2012 17:57:36  
2. Sand blasting sheet metal will warp it, even with my small sandblaster. I have done it. I use a fiber wheel on an electric drill, Makes deep scratches that the surfacer will fill.
3. Wax and grease remover is the last step before painting.
4. I don't do acid washes, I use Picklex 20 if I think it is necessary, it just needs to have the residue mostly scuffed off, wax and grease remover will get the rest of the residue. Do not wash it off. It will neutralize any rust in the bottom of pits if you have any after the fiber wheel. I do not use any phosphoric acid product on cast, that includes Picklex 20 because it gets in the pores and might lift the paint. It didn't the one time I used it, but I haven't used it since.
7. 2 coats of epoxy primer, do NOT sand it. You sand the surfacer. Go to PPG's website look up refinishing and print off whatever you are using. Follow the instructions for each step you do, you will not go wrong.
8. Surfacer is sanded with 400 grit, will likely require more than one application and sanding to get a flat surface, use only on the sheet metal. By application I mean 3 coats 10-15 minutes apart, let dry and sand.
If you have supplied air use PPG Omni MP 182 for the surfacer, Omni MTK single stage acrylic urethane for the topcoat, 3 coats. I use base clear for the topcoats, which work best for me. Both 182 and MTK require hardener and supplied air for your lungs. If you do not have supplied air, use MP 181 surfacer and MAE acrylic enamel. You will be happier with urethane, though.

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07-07-2012 21:10:42

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 Re: painting question in reply to CNKS, 07-03-2012 18:27:45  
CNKS, Not stiring the proverbial pot here but just adding my input. I have been sandblasting or having pro blasters do the job on some large scale projects for MANY years and I must be just plain lucky, if I take your sage advice to heart. RE: "Sand blasting sheet metal will warp it" I agree, sandblasting is not the operation to be taken on by the novice without some education and guidence. Hope I haven"t upset anyone, just adding my point of view.

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07-08-2012 08:55:01

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 Re: painting question in reply to Bodyman, 07-07-2012 21:10:42  
I've heard it before from several people, it only takes one mistake--I'm not going to leave my sheet metal with anyone and I choose not to do sandblasting on sheet metal or assembled tractors myself. It is not worth the risk. I have taken larger parts to pro sandblasters, their large units actually use less sand than my small sandblaster, factor in the price of my sand, and it is faster and cheaper to let someone else do it, however I have no nearby sandblasters.

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07-08-2012 20:34:40

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 Re: painting question in reply to CNKS, 07-08-2012 08:55:01  
CNKS, I am with you 100% on not blasting assembled tractors or many other things completely assembled, that"s just asking for a long term PITA. In my area I am fortunate to have a PRO that knows his stuff and travels around 80 miles one way to my shop to do work that makes better finacial sense to me, price is reasonable for his experience and knowledge. Happy painting !

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07-08-2012 04:51:57

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 Re: painting question in reply to Bodyman, 07-07-2012 21:10:42  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

I have sand blasted some tractor panels with no warping, It was a small unit with not very high pressure.

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