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what kinda primer to use on bare metal

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
i;m getting ready to sand blast alot of parts on my john deere 60.tring to make this the best of show tractor.question is,,,after i sand blast it down to bare metal.whats the best type of primer to use.someone said etching prime.is the john deere yellow looking primer good to use..just need some commites about this..thanx,,bill
 
Etching primer is mostly used on cars when no body work is needed and you can just prime it and topcoat quickly. Epoxy primer will provide better rust prevention and is better for tractors because they are chemical resistant. Each epoxy primer is different so you need to get a spec sheet with whatever primer you use. I use Nason Ful-Poxy 491-16. It has a 72 hour window in which it has to be topcoated but epoxy primers don't sand like oil based primers. They dry so hard if sanding and leveling is needed a filler primer should be put over the top so I use Evercoat Featherfil over the top. After coating with the Featherfil there is no recoat window. I can sand it and work it anytime. If bodywork is needed I put the fiberglass filler over the epoxy primer before the Featherfil. Anyway you can prime the metal parts with the epoxy primer and let set indefinitely. If you go much beyond the recoat window you will need to put a fresh coat of epoxy primer before preceding.
 
I will be just sand blasting the frame,rims and small parts right now.it might be several weeks before I will paint the whole thing...I need a primer that can sit for awhile.if you know what I mean..thanx..bill
 
You either use epoxy primer and paint within the window, or if outside the window scuff it and give it another coat. Epoxy is such a good primer that I won't recommend anything different. If you are afraid of rust, use Picklex 20. It is a rust preventative that comes in a squirt bottle--you can spray on and level out with a brush. It will keep rust off for months. Do not wash it off. When you get ready to paint, scuff the white residue off with a scotchbrite pad, follow with wax and grease remover, apply epoxy and topcoat within the window. You will want to put a sandable surfacer over the epoxy on the sheet metal in order to get a smooth surface. If you are using body filler, although it can be applied over the epoxy, I prefer bare metal, as you have to apply the epoxy again anyway after you sand the filler.
 
Yea I know how big a project it is to paint a tractor. The epoxy primer is good stuff, you just need to topcoat it with a sealer or a coat of your finish coat within the recoat window. If you exceed the recoat window you can scuff the primer or just put another coat of primer on before proceeding. Look at it this way, if you use the epoxy primer it will be as close to a factory paint job as you can get and will last much longer than other primers and will keep you from having to do this job again for a very long time.
 
Is scuffing epoxy tough? Will it work on cast where you can only hit the high spots well? Can you recoat with epoxy without scuffing?
 
Is scuffing epoxy tough? Will it work on cast where you can only hit the high spots well? Can you recoat with epoxy without scuffing?
 
Scuffing is ok for small parts, will take some effort on a whole tractor. The way I do it is to prepare the surface, then apply epoxy and topcoat the same or the next day. In my mind you have to get the parts clean before the first application of epoxy, if you have time to apply the epoxy, at that point there is no reason not to topcoat or apply surfacer. At the moment I have a bunch of sand blasted or wire wheeled parts. When I am ready I will make sure they are clean, then use epoxy and topcoat them. Where I live I don't get rust, if I do it is minimal and easily removed. To sum, it is the preparation that takes the time, the painting goes fast. As to whether or not you can reapply without scuffing, no -- or go by what the spec sheet says. The more expensive epoxies have a longer window. The length of time you can go without scuffing and reapplying is their only "advantage", far as I'm concerned.
 
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