IH WD-9 Rim Paint Color

WD9ER

Member
Hi everyone! I am looking to get paint for my WD-9 restoration project and would like to know the "correct" paint for the rims? I am using a Martin Senour red paint for everything else and would like to stick with this brand if possible. I'll be shooting it over an epoxy primer.
 
I think they were galv just like the letter series tractors. Mine are 650 series white. I know they weren't that from the factory.
 
sflem is correct, they were galvanized when new. for a low cost color, you can use rustoleum silver aluminum paint with some valspar hardener, looks pretty good. i used a gm ralleye wheel paint for a cadillac escalade and shot in base clear. here is the m with base clear on the wheels, red is crossfire.

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here is a farmall cub rim with rustoleum and hardener. the inside is painted with por-15 conversion primer. i loaded the cub tires with chloride for ballast

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How do I go buy that color of paint? If I walk into NAPA and say I want GM rally wheel paint I have a feeling they will look at me like I'm nuts. :D

Does your shop paint many tractors? Mine is getting close to ready and I am just not setup to do it.
 
they will have a color chip book. here are several paint codes for gm wheel colors. silver metallic wa 62438, wa9021/13, and ultra silver metallic wapb 8867. these are paint codes for diamont base clear, napa will be able to cross reference the formulas to crossfire or napas base clear lines. i paint an occassional tractor here as a fill in job, they can get spendy. the m ran about 3500 or so.
 
I am looking at using the Martin Senour PCC135 (Industrial Series) acrylic enamel over an epoxy primer for a cost effective paint solution. They make a silver metallic (PCC135SL) and IH Red (PCC135IH) that appears quite close to what I am envisioning, but wondering if anyone has experience shooting this paint and/or color and what the results were?

Also, I have a question about the radiator. Was it originally painted red or black? I was thinking of masking off the core and painting the cast tanks red being the neck is exposes as it protrudes through the grill sheetmetal. Were there other areas of the WD-9 that were not red (besides the rims)?

Addditionally, the rim were widened by 4 inches and from what I understand this was a common practice on these tractors. There is quite a bit of weld spatter on the rims that I am going to clean up and the weld bead is there as well. I was contemplating grind this weld smooth so once I paint over it, you would not be able to tell that the rims were widened, but I have no idea on the integrity of the weld so I run of the weld cracking down the road.

Finally (sorry for the novel and getting a bit off topic), how do most people handle fasteners (bolt heads, nuts, etc) ? I have removed alot of components to prep for paint and will likely have to paint alot of them off the tractor to get good coverage on all parts. In the end, some fasteners would be painted red and others would have to be replaced with a new plated fastener. I'm guessing from factory, everything was painted once assembled, but just wanted to see how others handle this.
 
(quoted from post at 11:43:50 03/01/12) I am looking at using the Martin Senour PCC135 (Industrial Series) acrylic enamel over an epoxy primer for a cost effective paint solution. They make a silver metallic (PCC135SL) and IH Red (PCC135IH) that appears quite close to what I am envisioning, but wondering if anyone has experience shooting this paint and/or color and what the results were?

Also, I have a question about the radiator. Was it originally painted red or black? I was thinking of masking off the core and painting the cast tanks red being the neck is exposes as it protrudes through the grill sheetmetal. Were there other areas of the WD-9 that were not red (besides the rims)?

Addditionally, the rim were widened by 4 inches and from what I understand this was a common practice on these tractors. There is quite a bit of weld spatter on the rims that I am going to clean up and the weld bead is there as well. I was contemplating grind this weld smooth so once I paint over it, you would not be able to tell that the rims were widened, but I have no idea on the integrity of the weld so I run of the weld cracking down the road.

Finally (sorry for the novel and getting a bit off topic), how do most people handle fasteners (bolt heads, nuts, etc) ? I have removed alot of components to prep for paint and will likely have to paint alot of them off the tractor to get good coverage on all parts. In the end, some fasteners would be painted red and others would have to be replaced with a new plated fastener. I'm guessing from factory, everything was painted once assembled, but just wanted to see how others handle this.

1 - No idea

2 - The end caps were painted. The rest was not painted. You will see some overspray on it (according to books) [b:f56120887b]I think[/b:f56120887b] the fins look good painted black. This may make the radiator not cool as well. There is a list of things that was masked off in Guy Fays "Originality Guide - Letter Series Tractors." This includes tags on electrical components, serial number, dist cap, etc. With that I think some things that should be red look like crap when they are red. These are mostly rubber parts like the hyd hoses, fan belts, and radiator hoses. For one thing they just don't hold the paint well. You could probably get the Guy Fay book when you place the rest of your order from B inder B ooks. :wink:

3 - I would certainly grind them smooth. If you don't trust their integrity do a second pass on the inside and grind then flap disc it down.

4 - I started a post on just this thing last month. Most guys are cleaning bolts up on a wire weel then painting them in cardboard or a board with holes. They then touch them up when the tractor is back together. (Use 6 pt sockets and not 12 and your paint will survive better) Most guys said they buy new washers and/or nuts because it is such a pain to clean them. Everything was painted put together with the exception of the hood (IIRC)

I have heard from most guys it will be around $3000. I already have mine in a pile of pieces but no paint prep has been done. Not sure if that makes it more or less expensive. I had a rough night last night. I went out to the barn and starred for 15 minutes. I didn't know where to start and thought I might never finish this project and then went back to the house. :oops: I then started making a list of what I need to do and what I need to buy. I want to be sure I have the cash to finish this thing once I get a good start on it. Just boring out the egged out holes and bushing them is going to be quite a proposition. There are over a dozen that need attention. Then I have to get the rods that go through them welded up and dress them back down. Now I am getting discouraged again.
 
Yeah, I completely agree with you on painting rubber parts and have no plans to paint them. I also agree with you on the black paint on the fins, but am concerned about the reduced cooling capacity by doing so. You said the end caps were painted, but you didn’t say what color (red or black)?

I wish I had access to the inside of the rim to do exactly as you mention, but new tires have already been mounted onto the rims. It’s probably not worth dis-mounting just to clean up a weld bead.

I guess I am going for a “mostly” original look on the tractor, but I do not want to spend the extra $$$’s to be completely original.

Thanks for the tip on the painting of bolt heads using cardboard and using a 6 pt socket to prevent damage to the paint. I have been wire wheeling a lot of the bolts that are in decent shape and replacing ones that have rusted beyond repair.

When you say it will be around $3000, what are you referring to? Paint cost? If so, I am looking at spending around $300 on paint at this point using the Martin Senour industrial paint. I realize that this is not automotive grade paint, but I am hoping the results will be adequate for a tractor that will shedded &amp; covered 99% of the time.

I have been paint prepping all my parts as I remove them so hopefully things go fast once I finish cleaning up the chassis. Keep your head up there sflem849! I’ve had plenty of nights that I did the same thing. Which bores are you referring to that need to have bushings installed?
 
Sorry, end caps are red. At least they are on my two radiators. I'm going to paint my radiator. Maybe I will use rattle cans instead of real paint so it is a really thin coat??? Should help paint transfer.

I am probably going to use MS Crossfire on my 9. I have seen some that are awesome with Valspar Restoration Series so I am not too worried about Crossfire.

Don't weld on the rim with the tire on it! You will blow up. There was a video on the RPM forum last week. I never knew that but it makes sense according to the ideal gas law. Plus your tube will be junk. I bought a set of irons and a bead breaker with a neighbor so I take tires on and off quite a bit.

Sometimes my money disappears in a hurry because I just HAVE to have the silver cloth recovered seat rather than the cheapo red and white one. There goes an extra $20 on top of $125.

Glen owns or manages (I don't remember) a paint shop "near" me. I was asking what a ballpark price on them painting a tractor would be. He said the last M they did was $3500. It was kind of an off topic conversation.

My names actually Scott. sflem849 was my student id name when I was in college. You can use that at trivia someday. :lol: I figured making a list of what I needed for parts and labor was just as good as doing something. It might keep me from forgetting stuff. My dealer also runs a 10% off sale once a year in spring. I figured I better get my dealer only stuff now to get my free 10%.

If you couldn't tell, I am a little "Type A" sometimes. I am going to bore out and put bushings in the clutch and brake pedals. They sell or my machine shop will make a new shaft that they pivot on. Also my throttle and decompression system is getting pretty sloppy. Like where the throttle pivots on the bottom of the steering shaft and where the little 90* bends in the rods go through the linkages. The worn spots on the rod will get built up with weld and then dressed down smooth. The holes will get bored out and bushed. Follow?

I left all my bolts dirty for now because I don't have a heated shop so they wouldn't get painted right away.

I was just kidding the other day. I also didn't have time to scan the pages of the manual in the computer. Send me an email and I could email you a copy of the pages. You really should buy the operators and service manuals. There is A LOT of stuff you need in there.

Here is a an example of a shaft that needs attention to take the slop out.
c51073_lrg.jpg


My classy shop.
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Yeah, I was thinking along the same lines to lay down a thin coat from a rattle can just to clean up the look of the fins

I did some quick checking on the Valspar Restoration series and it appears to be roughly the same cost as the MS PCC series. Curious though, you say that you have seen some awesome Valspar Restoration Series, then why are you using the Crossfire series? I shot my last car with Crossfire and felt like it turned out good, but that is a BC/CC paint as opposed to the single stage Valspar resto and MS PCC series. From what I understand the commercial coatings provide good hardness and rust resistant, but are prone to fade, but being the tractor will be shedded most of the time, it should not be an issue.

Ha, funny that you mention the silver cloth seat as mine JUST showed up in the mail today. I really like the look of the tractor with a silver canvas to accent the wheels. I got mine from Devon’s Tractor Parts and it ended up being $165 after shipping.

No, I would definitely not weld on the rims with the tires mounted. I’m kinda kicking myself for not grinding down the welds when the tires were off.

Yeah, I’m pretty A-type as well, but this is my first tractor project so that generates a lot of questions! I never even payed attention to the slop in the throttle &amp; decomp linkage. Thanks, now I have another thing to think about! ;-) How are you dressing down the welds? Grinding them or machining them?

What’s your email address so I can drop you a line? I actually do have the owner’s manual and part’s manual.
 
I was going to use MS because the local NAPA guy is a family friend and a painter. I think the tech support is worth something. My buddy also "restored" a 4 year old planter 3 years ago with MS and it turned out well. (The JD green does look a touch darker than the new JD green) I am not going to shoot base clear. Maybe it wasn't the Crossfire. I don't think it was the industrial but I could be wrong.

The paint has held up pretty well on the planter, but it hasn't set out much or at all. He uses liquid fert and 32% on the planter and has spilled it and washed off promptly. No problems there either.

I'm going with Devon's as well. It's only money. OEM has the stuipd vinyl ones for $149 plus shipping. That makes a difference of only $15 and that is a pretty easy decision.

I would at least dress them up with a flap disk on the grinder. That and a little body filler and they should be pretty well hidden. I have seen some pretty bad hack jobs so I could be wrong.

I don't have my mill setup yet so I am just going to hit them with the die grinder. Anything will be better than they are now. Really if you TIG weld them they are smooth enough and you put material on slow enough that you might not have to do anything. That is how my buddy rebuilt my H shifter. Only problem there is the metal has to be REALLY clean.

I have taken apart my MD, H, and SMTA in various ways before but this is my first full resto. I think we should have started on a stupid H before we tackled the biggest most complicated tractor of the era.

The service manual is probably the most important one. You will probably want to pick one up someday. I actually should have saved my money on the operators manual because it is about 90% the same as my MD manual. My email should show up on the bottom as a button in the modern view.
 

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