rust pits-how to fill them

mdelfert

New User
Im beginning working on restoring an M. Some of the metal has pitting,deep enough to not be able to grind it without compromising the metal. Will multiple coats of paint after priming fill these sufficiently or is there a product other than this that will fill these other than bondo!!
 
clean all the rust out by sandblasting, then put a coat or two of "icing" on it. icing is a pourable body filler used as a finishing coat over body filler before priming. it is runny, and you do mix it with hardener. sand it just like filler. from there i would go over it with a 2k powerfill primer and block sand, then re-prime and sand as necessary.
 
just go to your local auto parts store like napa, oreilly, or autozone and pick up some glaze coat or metal glaze. it is similar to bondo, but it cant go on as thick. it's for filling small imperfections.
 
Most rust pits on sheet metal can be filled with a surfacer or primer surfacer. Apply and sand off 2 or 3 times, whatever it takes. You cannot fill pits with paint. Apply the surfacer over true epoxy primer.
 
also, need to know what his top coat is, if he is using a urethane single stage or a base/clear.
 
Stop in at the nearest Auto Body Supply house. Get the icing or pourable filler.
If you are doing a small area, use full body primer without thinning and apply with a2-3 inch foam roller. You can roll on the equivalent of 20 coats of spray primerin three coats, waiting 15 mins between apps.
 
I like CNKS's solution the best. Prime first with epoxy primer and use a filler primer over the top. Evercoat Featherfil can be used without having a sealer coat over it. The epoxy primer will provide a better moisture barrier to prevent the rust from returning.
 

I have just primed and sanded two front rims that were pretty bad so I had them blasted. I had my doubts but the 2k filler primer smoothed them right out.
 
Glennster, not a lot of choices as to paint where I live. The PPG dealer sells only PPG, and I put epoxy under everything. It is very easy to spray, dries fast, two coats takes less time than anything else I use. The Dupont dealer sells other brands, but I have no good reason to deal with him. I don't even approach you in terms of knowledge and experience, but what I recommend on this forum is what I use and it has never let me down in the 10 years I have been doing this. I don't doubt that dp 26 will work in this case, since you are familiar with the product, but I do have some doubts about a product that claims it can be used on any surface, anywhere, any place as the spec sheet implies.
 
we have excellent performance the the dp primers, 25 is white, 26, grey, and dp 27 is black. they provide excellent adhesion and corrosion protection, and do work on most all surface materials we have encountered. it can be air dried, or i can throw our infrared lamp on it for smaller areas, ie fender door ect and be ready for color in 10 minutes or so, or bake in the booth for large areas. it is spendy, over 200 gallon, but eliminates a separate epoxy base coat, then primer, on to base color , then clear. some bumper covers, especially honda, require a special prep package to remove the mold release agents, and some plastics require an adhesion promoter like bulldog, as a tie coat. if you get a chance, try the dp line, i think you will be happy with it.
 
(quoted from post at 21:57:51 02/22/12)
If you are doing a small area, use full body primer without thinning and apply with a2-3 inch foam roller. You can roll on the equivalent of 20 coats of spray primerin three coats, waiting 15 mins between apps.
Would brushing work? I'm thinking I'll need to do this a piece or two at a time, and some pieces are small and irregularly shaped.
 
Glennster--After reading most of your link, it is my opinion that some of their primer surfacer products are some sort of a combination of epoxy and surfacer, not that I fully understand how RM does that. If it works for you, fine. To a body shop time is money and you can save time by skipping a step. I doubt if you or your customer will ever be able to tell any difference by eliminating one step, but somehow I am not a fan of do it all products. So I'm going to stick with what I call true epoxy. Of the entire painting process epoxy is the fastest and most mistake free step that I use. It can be coated with surfacer or topcoated in 30 minutes, but time is not that big a factor to me, probably is to you.
 
Don't know, but I've used the 1 inch foam roller quite a bit. You can flat put a lot of hi build primer on a bunch of low apots on a hood inno time. Work it out from the midlle fast like rolling out a pie crust. No cleanup either.
 
Biggest mistake ever is to hope paint will fill little holes and blemishes!

It never does. All it does is make them shiny so they stick out more.

Definitely take the time to fill them and sand them before your final coat.
 

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