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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Re: rust pits-how to fill them

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glennster

02-22-2012 17:12:02
99.90.9.153



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cnks, if he uses a 2k powerfill primer like rm dp 26, there is no need for an epoxy primer basecoat. here is a link to the specs on the primer.




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CNKS

02-23-2012 17:30:42
216.144.104.128



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 Re: rust pits-how to fill them in reply to glennster, 02-22-2012 17:12:02  
Glennster, not a lot of choices as to paint where I live. The PPG dealer sells only PPG, and I put epoxy under everything. It is very easy to spray, dries fast, two coats takes less time than anything else I use. The Dupont dealer sells other brands, but I have no good reason to deal with him. I don't even approach you in terms of knowledge and experience, but what I recommend on this forum is what I use and it has never let me down in the 10 years I have been doing this. I don't doubt that dp 26 will work in this case, since you are familiar with the product, but I do have some doubts about a product that claims it can be used on any surface, anywhere, any place as the spec sheet implies.

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glennster

02-23-2012 19:18:53
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 Re: rust pits-how to fill them in reply to CNKS, 02-23-2012 17:30:42  
we have excellent performance the the dp primers, 25 is white, 26, grey, and dp 27 is black. they provide excellent adhesion and corrosion protection, and do work on most all surface materials we have encountered. it can be air dried, or i can throw our infrared lamp on it for smaller areas, ie fender door ect and be ready for color in 10 minutes or so, or bake in the booth for large areas. it is spendy, over 200 gallon, but eliminates a separate epoxy base coat, then primer, on to base color , then clear. some bumper covers, especially honda, require a special prep package to remove the mold release agents, and some plastics require an adhesion promoter like bulldog, as a tie coat. if you get a chance, try the dp line, i think you will be happy with it.

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CNKS

02-25-2012 08:08:43
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 Re: rust pits-how to fill them in reply to glennster, 02-23-2012 19:18:53  
Glennster--After reading most of your link, it is my opinion that some of their primer surfacer products are some sort of a combination of epoxy and surfacer, not that I fully understand how RM does that. If it works for you, fine. To a body shop time is money and you can save time by skipping a step. I doubt if you or your customer will ever be able to tell any difference by eliminating one step, but somehow I am not a fan of do it all products. So I'm going to stick with what I call true epoxy. Of the entire painting process epoxy is the fastest and most mistake free step that I use. It can be coated with surfacer or topcoated in 30 minutes, but time is not that big a factor to me, probably is to you.

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glennster

02-22-2012 17:14:53
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 Re: rust pits-how to fill them in reply to glennster, 02-22-2012 17:12:02  
also, need to know what his top coat is, if he is using a urethane single stage or a base/clear.



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