How to paint with standard TSC paint

chuckinnc

Member
I have 2 large MF tractors that stay out in the weather all the time. I need to paint them to keep the rust away. I plan on using standard grade paint from TSC and a roller. Do I need to thin the paint, add hardner or just use it as is.
The guy at TSC didn't know, the temp will be around 60 - 65 degrees when I plan to paint, this is not a restoration project, just need paint.
 
Please don't buy the standard tractor paint made by Valspar. It is the worst oil based enamel I've ever used. I painted my first tractor with it and within six months the sheen was gone. After a year the paint faded out to where it looked worse than before I painted it. After two years the paint failed completely and had to be repainted. I would recommend that you go to Sherwin Williams and get the paint. They won't have the color codes. You will probably have to make a color sample with some rattle can paint.

Having said that to use an oil based alkyd enamel you should thin it as little as you can and still spray it. The more thinner you use makes the paint dry slower and ruins the integrity of the paint. When spraying it most paints recommend naphtha. With the Valspar hardener it is recommended to use two ounces per quart. The hardener is very helpful. It makes the paint perform like the old lead based paint. When you paint using a hardener use it in a well ventilated place and especially use a chemical respirator. The hardener contains cyanides.
 
for your application, use about 5 percent mineral spirits or naptha as a reducer (check with what the paint recommends) and use the hardener. applying with a roller will keep the airborne voc's at a minimum, but wear latex or nitrile gloves and a respirator anyway, just to be on the safe side. your temperature is on the low end for application, but should be ok. you will prolly need 2 gallons to do each tractor if they are large. you will get some sun fading over time, but it should do what you are looking for. the foam rollers will prolly be your best choice, get a few different sizes to get in the small areas.
 
Do what Stephen suggested and use one of the name brands. You will like the results. I would use an epoxy primer too. Hal
 
If you ever plan to sell them you will lower the value by painting them that way. Let them sit until you can afford to do it right. What you are doing is temporary anyway. With no preparation they will continue to rust under the paint, and will very easily chip off.
 
I'm restoring a tractor now that had some of your kind of treatment, the man put some kind of paint on the hood panels with little prep. They are taking a lot more work to prep than the parts he didn't bother with. With the TSC paint you should get it in your vehicle and when you leave the parking lot head for the closest unwanted chemical disposal depot, leave the paint there! jack
 
I painted my neighbor"s D14 with paint from tractor supply. I used hardener in it. It stays covered inside and on top of that covered up with a car cover so I expect it to be fine for years to come. Its washed with a special car wash liquid from Meguiars also. Its shiny as a diamond and has been a real head turner at shows.
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The label says you can not thin the paint. I called the factory and they said that is because it won't be VOC comliant, but it is physically compatible. It is oil based. IIRC I used plain old paint thinner???

It WILL NOT spray. I sprayed my first coat when it was too hot and it did a terrible job. Then I brushed/rolled unreduced paint the second time and it went ok. The runs NEVER dry.

If you have ANY hopes of spraying it buy the good stuff.
 
Try to spray the paint right out of the can without thinning it. Most brands of paint today are watered down to where you don't need to thin it to spray.
 
I have a few comments I'd like to include having read the other posts, these are just my opinions gathered from previous experience, so they are worth hopefully saving someone from harming their health. When using any paint (spraying that is) ALWAYS wear a respirator, if the paint is catilized (hardened/actvated/urethane), a supplied air respirator is very important as these products contain polyisocyanates that are extreamly hazardous to your health. Also your skin needs to be covered to minimize exposure and beyond that, if you sand, buff or polish newly painted panels (that had hardners) you are adding to the exposure as particals become airborn,(respirator needed). Also if you mix or clean-up such paints without the proper gloves it will be absorbed into your system. No to be "Chicken Little here but hoping to help someone out in advance.
 
you are at the low end of the temp range for that paint.

I WOULD use hardner otherwise it will take forever to set.

as for the roller.. um.. ok... I prefer spraygun myself.. but.. whatever you gotta do to keep the rust down.. I guess..

I would primer it too.

ps... for hardner.. hit a nason dealer and get ther quik ure hardner for their single stage syn enamil. much superior to t he valspar hardner IMHO..

soundguy
 

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