Autobody Master Epoxy Primer

TJ in KY

Member
Has anybody used this brand? Any feedback good or bad. I think it is a Sherwin Williams brand. The local parts house carries it but they can also order me PPG products. Just curious about it. The data sheet state that it is a "two component, isocyanate, lead and chromate free epoxy primer or sealer with good corrosion resistance"
I think PPG MP 170 is also ISO free but not sure (not called out on their data sheet... only states non-chrome epoxy), I dont have a supplied air system, and want to be sure.
I will be painting a 1950 Ford 8N. what color primer should I use for the red cast parts, and should I use a grey primer for the grey sheetmetal or does it even matter

Tom
 
stick with the ppg mp 170. what paint line are you shooting? stay in your paint line with your primers, sealers, reducers ect. crossing paint lines can cause all kinds of problems. some are not compatible with other brands. medium to dark gray primer for darker colors, light gray7 for lighter colors.
 
MP 170 is iso free. If you want confirmation look at the MSDS on their web site.
 
TJ, I hope this helps.
Autobody Master has been around for several years and is a top quality product. It is compatible with all other major brands. I have used this product for many years without any problems, the price is very reasonable, compared to the major brands, like Dupont, ppg etc. As for primer color, being you are going to paint solid base colors, like a solid red or gray it wouldn't make much of a difference because your going to be shorting a complete project. Now if the colors were of a transparent base then primer color could and will make a difference in the final color outcome.
This is a product I buy at O'Rellys Auto Parts stores in MO.


Epoxy Primer
An outstanding quality, two component, isocyanate, lead, and chromate free epoxy
primer or sealer with good corrosion resistance. The primer offers excellent adhesion
to prepared metal, fiberglass and aluminum surfaces.
Part # Description Size
8411 Epoxy Primer Green/Gray Gallon
8412 Epoxy Primer Green/Gray Quart
8413 Epoxy Primer Black Gallon
8414 Epoxy Primer Black Quart
8415 Epoxy Primer White Gallon
8416 Epoxy Primer White Quart
8121 Epoxy Catalyst Quart
8122 Epoxy Catalyst Half Pint
Substrates
• Fully Cured Finishes - Sand with 240-320 grit paper
• Steel, Galvanized& Aluminum - Sand with 80-180 grit paper
• Fiberglass and SMC - Sand with 150-240 grit paper
• Always clean surface prior to application with 5900 or 5910 wax & grease remover.
Mixing
VOC Compliant Primer Conventional Primer Conventional Sealer
4 parts Epoxy Primer 4 Primer 4 Primer
1 part Epoxy Catalyst 1 Catalyst 1 Catalyst
Up to 1/2 Part Urethane Reducer 3 Urethane Reducer 4 Urethane Reducer
5 Min. Mechanical Induction 5 Min. Mechanical Induction 5 Min. Mechanical Induction
Set Up Tech Info
Tip/Needle: 1.5mm to 1.8mm
Spot Air Pressure 35 - 45 psi / HVLP 5 to 10 psi at cap
Overall Air Pressure: 45 - 55 psi / HVLP 5 to 10 psi at cap
VOC Primer Conv. Primer Conv. Sealer
Viscosity (#2 Zahn) 20-25 Sec 19-22 Sec 16-18 Sec
Film Build 1.0-1.2 mils DTF .8-1.0 mils DTF .5 mils DTF
Coverage (@ 1mil) 481 Sq. Ft. 336 Sq. Ft. 288 Sq. Ft.
Application
VOC Compliant Primer Conventional Primer Conventional Sealer
1 full wet coat 1-2 full wet coats 1 wet coat
w/10-15 min. flash
Drying VOC Primer Conv. Primer Conv. Sealer
Sand Time Not recommended 60 minutes Not recommended
Recoat 60 minutes 60 minutes 30 minutes
Topcoat 60 minutes 60 minutes 30 minutes
Pot Life 8 hours 8 hours 8 hours
Physical Data
Volume Solids RTS 30% 21% 18%
VOC RTS 4.8 lb/gal. 5.5 lb/gal. 5.7 lb/gal.
Humidity Resistance Excellent Excellent Excellent
Salt Spray Resistance Excellent Excellent Excellent
Master Tips
Do not use over lacquer products. Recoat within 72 hours. Greater than 72 hours, scuff sand
before top coat. In temperatures over 77°F recoat within 36 hours.
 
Glennster, CNKS, and SWMO, Thanks for all the replies, Still undecided as to what line I am going to use, (I have found tech sheets for both paints) leaning toward PPG.

I assume I can get proper Ford color codes (for 1950 8N)for both manufacturers somewhere on this site, just havent looked yet

When I started this project I thought cost would be no object as it was my Dad's tractor BUT, the cost are sure adding up fast, so that may influence my decision
I already have over $1200 in the rear end (brakes, bearings runningboards, Hyd sys pump and pistons) and still know I need to rebuild engine, steering box and front axle king pin and new tires all around. (hope I can save the rims and repair the sheet metal) BUT it was my Dad's tractor, he bought it the year I was born so I guess I will come up with the money, Having fun doing it (except for this paint thing is driving me crazy) :? Just wish he was around to see it when I am done. Thanks again Tom
 

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